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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
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Wow! You are a long way from where you were.
I am. And I think you are, too.
But that was a fun day. Here's a (kind of dark) picture of Don following the previous pitch, just below the tree. I have no idea why he had to stretch to get that pin out, because he's a lot taller than I am.
I cleaned the last pitch by headlamp. Don had forgotten to bring a headlamp but was unalterably opposed to my totally sensible idea of pulling a bivi. Pretty much a moonless night, so I'd walk a couple of steps then turn and shine my headlamp for him. Repeat over and over again about two million times. All the way down. It was kind of exciting since neither of us had been on top of Tantalus before and had only a vague idea of which way to go to avoid tumbling over hidden cliffs. And there wasn't much of a trail back then anyway.
Edit: About the shoes. I somehow got to the base without my climbing shoes, so did the climb in Adidas running shoes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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Very cool photos (& moustache) Ghost & Hamie. Always wanted to do the entire T wall. Did the bottom half once & felt like pukin after the ow. Top looks brilliant. Who can chime in on the rumor that PC freed the roof pitch shown in that photo?? Guidebooks seem slightly cryptic about confirming it??
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 25, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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Relic: No hot choccies at the Ahwahnee in our budgets. $1.00 a day, including 35 cents for smokes. The snow and ice didn't come til next month.
Here's a pic of Frank Sacherer, Gary Colliver, Penny Carr [FA Moby Dick] and a waitress from the coffee shop, hiking to the base of the lower falls.
EDIT: I just remembered that Frank and Gary made the FA of Bishop's Balcony, photo on previous page. Not really Frank's kind of climb!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Just counting the minutes until someone (like Tami) makes some comment about your hair.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 26, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Wow Greg! That shirt would be what? Fuchsia? Did you help to bring that colour into MEC's lineup? Maybe the brightness of it fried your hair follicles. :)
What route is that on in Yos?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 26, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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All this while Harry K sneaks in on another thread. Some welcoming committee. Sheesh!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Awesome tale and photo Hamie! Once again, making us modern folk look like a bunch of pussies! :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Ghost- I freed a 5.5 in my runners today, did you free much of that climb? ;) Luke and I had a similar tale getting off Milk Run, he had the light and I had none, I was following him, but kept falling behind and having to ask him to shine the light for me. Oh and we had a well established trail ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Halarious Greg. Nice shirt indeed, a photographers dream. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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POST #3000!!!!!!!!!!
WWHOHOo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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We went to Funarama the other day.
Nina got on the namesake climb, Funarama 5.9
Nina on Funarama, Sandra takes down Funarampa and Someone finishes up Point Blank
Nina sets up her gear for the run.
She was sucessful in her Onsight attempt.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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After we went to Respiration and Kyle hit up Coronary Bypass and this one,
Kyle on Thorax Complaint 10c????
Kieran Brownie Photo
He struggled with the roof move and ended up taking on a micro offset nut before clipping this bomber cam.
Kieran Brownie Photo
Big Bike on belay.
Thanks for the shots Kieran!! You are a true pro.
Kieran Brownie Photo
Great scrubbin Luke!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 26, 2012 - 05:22am PT
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Many awesome photos, thanks! Those roof cracks look killer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 26, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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5 posts in a row are you drunk or something?
Nice work on funorama Nina!
Did you guys climb "shrimpin' ain't easy"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 26, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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5 posts in a row are you drunk or something?
Nah. He just wanted to guarantee that he'd get #3,000
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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Ghost is right. I wanted 3k. No shrimpin, it was wet. Redpointed sandra's again, right up the middle. Those roof cracks are fun, but hard!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 26, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
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Cool shots from Ghost and Jim B. Matching red socks, red aiders and a red harness, c/w a pink rope..... Oooooh my! and that fuchsia shirt too. Just kiddin'.
Several posts have mentioned hiking down with only one headlamp. The trick here is for the person behind to have the light, and shine it at his partner's feet. We found this out the hard way--of course.
Four of us, including a well-known climber from Golden, set out at a reasonably early time to do Louis. Since history says that Kain and MacCarthy started their FA at noon, after a leisurely picnic at the base with the ladies, we expected a similarly short day [if not shorter!]. Perhaps it was the raps which slowed us down, as four people are always slow, the raps on Louis are awkward, and walking down the scree slope is tedious. When we were all finally assembled on the trail it was midnight, and we had one headlamp between four. Duh! With four people it worked best if the third person had the headlamp.
We made it back to Canmore at about 2am, after a 20 hour day. Our egos eventually recovered.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 26, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Several posts have mentioned hiking down with only one headlamp. The trick here is for the person behind to have the light, and shine it at his partner's feet.
+1
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 26, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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gf: The doctrine of V2 was determined to be "non-infallible" [huh?] which should give one some flexibility in compliance. Regardless, female visits to C4 were few and far between, esp when there was a foot of snow on the ground. Unless you had brought your own gf [no pun intended!]. The waitress in the photo served me equal amounts of hot coffee and cold shoulder--on a daily basis.
There is a story told that a climber once overheard a YPCC male employee saying to a female employee, "Never go to that climbers' campground. It's like a leper colony over there".
Big Mike, or is it Big Bike these days? Hamish F's influence perhaps? I certainly never intended to suggest that anyone is a 'pussy'. Apologies if it came out that way. I'm impressed that you guys are getting out so often. We're setting lots of all-time records for rain etc up here, and climbing days are rare.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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+1 Ya we figured this one out eventually too.
A couple more pics
Nina contemplates the crux on Funarama 5.9
Kyle clips the horizontal on Thorax Complaint 10d
Edit: Hamie we cross posted. I know you never said anything of the sort i was simply poking a little fun at myself and modern climbers. Truth is there is always some sort of climbing to be done if one has enough will. Wetness is simply something to be dealt with as I'm sure you are well aware. Thanks for the inspiration!!
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