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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Too bad Hanging Gardens didn't make the cut.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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I second the Jim nomination.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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This talk bout Crystal Burst made me dig up an old photo of somebody repeating Mighty Mouse. It's an extra finishing pitch Brent Nixon added above Mickey Mouse. Blank stemming corner with a mantle to finish, nicely bolted
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Oplopanax you finally outed yourself! Nice photo. What does Mighty Mouse go at?? Looks rough.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 23, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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11a I think?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 23, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Wow! Look at what is now "Rambles" in that photo Oplanax posted, that was some serious gardening tactics!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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That's what i was thinking earlier! Much more than just a "Scrub"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 23, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Holy crap. That sum serious shrubbery on pre-Rambles. Definetly a huge deforestation effort. There's no way crystal burst went up thru where I thought it did.
Hats off to Mr. Frimer and crew.
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 23, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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Three cheers for BIG ED...
He took me to Squish for my first time. We immediately set out for Slab Alley. The highest off the ground I had ever been was about 70ft. Multi-pitch was pretty intimidating for a chicken like me so as we hiked in I asked "What happens if I get up there and start to freak out and untie or something like that?"
Ed stopped in mid trail "Why? Is this something you're likely to do?"
When we got to the second pitch it was my turn to lead an easy horizontal walk out crack, complete with a couple of bolts and a mighty rating of 5.5
I was scared spitless.
"Can I take a couple of cams to back up those bolts? They look pretty old."
"Yes of course. But really it's pretty easy. If you fall off this you deserve to die"
Good times.
P.S. We did Crystal Burst that trip...the only 5.10 Ed was willing to lead...at every bolt he would clip in then cry out "Eeek, I'm scared."
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 24, 2012 - 03:16am PT
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Luke and I went went for a ride today, ditching Nathan at the Bluffs with a haul bag full of aid climbing thingies. He was excited to do his first solo aid climb, as the rocks were still kinda soaked from all the liquid sunshine we been swimming in lately. After our ride we biked up the smoke bluff trail to Zombie Roof to go heckle the aid climber.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 24, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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Ah forgot mah hammah......
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 24, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Hehehe nice "pose" Luke! That photo is funny.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Possibly the first recorded ascent of Zombie Roof was by Daryl, IIRC in 1978. He aided across the roof, fixing a nut every metre or so, to enable subsequent free ascents.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 24, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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I found that aside from a wide cam, gear after pulling the lip was fairly thin..... at one point I was a little worried. To do that part after the lip on nuts would be hardcore.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 24, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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TheSoloClimbers first aid solo. Nicely done.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 25, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Nice work Nathan.
Zombie looks a lot like Bishop's Balcony.While there appears to be a good crack, it was actually a closed seam, with a few shallow pockets. This involved stacking two or three cut-off Cassins and short Leepers for each placement--an uncomfortable and tedious business when hanging from a single strand of climbing rope around the waist. Ouch! A harness would have been nice. As you can see our rock-shoes [Zillertals or Kroenhoffers], which also doubled as approach shoes, were large enough to accomodate a pair of warm wool socks.
I think I read recently that these pockets have now been whacked out enough to take small cams. Not sure if that would feel more secure or not.....
Note to Relic: No 'helmuts' back then, only the occasional Helmut at the ski hill.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 25, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Hamish, on such a lovely day to be in front of a warm fire, sipping hot chocolate at the Ahwannee, WHAT THEE HELL ARE YA DOIN PUNDIN PEETONS WHERE HELL FROZE OVER?
You look like yer gonna die, but didn't.
Tenacity...
Oh wait... I thought that was all snow and ice and crap. It's just an old black and white photo. Haha, oops.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Here's another "aiding the roof" shot from the Jurassic Era.
Hamie, you shouldn't complain about wearing socks in your Kroenhoffers. Check out the sock/shoe combo here.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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Friendly tree belay on Tantalus?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Wow! You are a long way from where you were.
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