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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Noooooooo Tami, I meant to say it is now one of the most popular routes on the Apron. Rambles it's called now, a 5.8 with a 10b alt exit, which I think is Crystal Burst.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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There was another route beside Crystal Burst at the base of the Apron. Can't remember the name now, but I remember wondering back then why they weren't more popular. I always thought it was the best way to start an Apron climb, but it sounds like they fell out of sight.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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IIRC, Crystal Burst more or less climbs up directly to the first (second) belay on what is now called the Rambles, and then the routes more or less merge. But I make no guarantees - I may be thinking of Mickey Mouse, the route to the right. It's been a while. But one or other of the two comes directly up the slab, and then merges. Those lower Apron routes were briefly popular, about 1980 - 82, but I've very rarely seen anyone on them since then.
When I did the "Rambles" a few weeks ago, I noticed some patched bolt holes, at about the first (second) belay, which may be from old bolts.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Mickey Mouse starts to the right about 10m from "Rambles", crosses it and goes directly up and left of "Rambles".
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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"Mickey Mouse" Yes, that's the other one.
So why did they fall out of favor?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I vaguely remember doing one of those routes, which had a short and easier second pitch leading into the forest, near the trail.
There's a new Squamish Select guidebook out, from Quickdraw Publications. The first new guidebook for Squamish and area for 4 - 5 years. Well worth a look, and available at the shops in Squamish and Vancouver.
http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Squamish%20Select.html
Disclosure: I helped a bit with proofing and such, and apparently am to get a complimentary copy. Probably works out to a pay rate of about $1.00/hour. The proofs that I saw looked very good.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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The new guide is super good, the photography in it especially. In it, Marc notes that Rambles shares portions of Crystal Burst. So that's what made me wonder about it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Crystal Burst, Ed Seedlyhouse, those are old memories. I was there though, hand drill, quarter-inchers, bizzare climbing partner. The whole enchilada. 1978ish.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Edit- Sorry about all the annoying sleuthing... deleted all this nonsense.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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relic: what exactly are you trying to point/figure out here?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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Just trying to figure out what crystal burst is. I think Rambles is an awesome route and all that but it's not really clear if it's a long forgotten old route or a new one. Scrubbing old lines is awesome, Jeremy F has done a great service doing this. Claiming it as a new route by accident is ok too, but it should be corrected and properly credited to the first ascent party.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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I know how many spokes are in my current mountain bike wheels but I'm a little murky on a new route from 34 years ago. I don't think it was nearly as good or as long as the climb in the pictures. 24 spokes in each wheel.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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The Rambles at least crosses and shares a belay with Crystal Burst or Mickey Mouse, and perhaps some of the second pitch. As it's a low angle, incut crack, with lots of trees and stuff above, it'll be interesting to see how clean it stays.
It seems that we may not be going in circles on this thread.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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I hope it will stay nice and clean from sheer usage. It's so much more fun than walking up. Sorry if I made it sound like an inquisition. I was just curious and bored waiting for that damn Nathan punk to goto MEC!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Thank God for Anders, the only guy left with a memory.
Funny I can't recall every step of that Crystal Burst climb nearly as well as I can remember the look on my parents' faces when Ed Seedhouse showed up at our house in Victoria to pick me up for a weekend climbing trip. He was no ordinary looking guy, maybe mid-twenties, or thirties, really hard to tell, and I was probably 13. Yikes.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Well, I only ever did about 5% as much climbing as most of you, and so maybe that helps me remember it.
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markr
Trad climber
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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Disclosure: I helped a bit with proofing and such, and apparently am to get a complimentary copy. Probably works out to a pay rate of about $1.00/hour. The proofs that I saw looked very good.
I guess when editing you missed poor Jasmine Caton credited as Jason Caton (!) sending Zombie IIRC. Shame, that's going to be in print like that for a while.
Mike, thanks for that video man, really cool of you to link that up, I appreciate it.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 22, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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Ha ha, I glanced at the caption of that photo not an hour ago and didn't even notice the typo. The route is My Little Pony at Chek.
I don't think I proofed that section, so I'm off the hook for that one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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It'll stay clean. It's the new approach to Diedre. I see parties on it all the time, and it dries quickly.
Mark thought it was cool too.. Hadn't seen it before MH linked that thread.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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I'm nominating Jim for funniest guy involved. Where does he come up with these images in such a timely fashion?
There was nothing wrong with Seedly Edhouse, he meant well and was well behaved. Just a little frightening to see, especially first thing in the morning in the daze when everyone would sleep on the Psyche-Ledge road in no particular organized fashion whatsoever. Just bodies strewn everywhere and possibly a few empties here and there.
Anyone that actually owned a vehicle in those days was immediately in. Climbers needed to get around and vehicles, whether insured or not (J.B.), proved ultimately handy. Ed rolled in a tercel which could carry three broke climbers.
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