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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 13, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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Do people really 2nd that mantel on the traverse? Wow.
My partner didn't have to follow when I led that pitch. We were planning the full Dream On, rather than Dream Symphony, and after I led that fourth pitch over the overlap and then the traverse back left, I just clipped the station and kept going up. Ran it out a ways and then got just a little too eager to get the next clip and reached waaaaayyyyy too high (forgetting my feet) and was sailing.
I sailed a long way, and came to a stop just as my butt banged into the overlap. Pretty painful. We bailed, and I was limping for almost two weeks.
But I got off easy. Ed Fischer, who was belaying me, said he got in two armfuls of slack as I was flying. If he hadn't done that I'd have smashed into the overlap at full speed and probably completely shattered my pelvis. Ed was a really good belayer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 13, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Great story David! Good thing Ed was such a good belayer!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:47am PT
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Time to get this thing back onto the front page. No particular stories, but a few random Squamish photos...
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:57am PT
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Hey Ghost
I know exactly where your fall fell...
Took me 20 yrs of hard work to finally pull that route all in. Worst possible fall on the whole damn route as near as I can tell!
P.S. There is a whole pitch missing from EVERY guide book.
How many people really top out?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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Thanks for the bumps I was starting to think this thread was going to fade into oblivion...
An it would have been fishboys fault.
P.s. tami its called the gunslinger... Not the mudslinger...hahah
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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pics 1: Rainy Day Dream Away
2: Mosquito
3: P1 Sunblessed
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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Think she was referring to the insults and name calling as mudslinging there Luc :P
Edit: Or maybe you noticed that, and it's just too early for me to catch it....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Hi everybody!
Thanks to all for all the stories and photos. I have been quite busy lately and it seems everytime I sit down to post, I get distracted by something else.
Should be leaving for work right now, so not much time.. Kyle gives me photos from time to time to post so here's a couple from him.
Kyle on Desparado 10c
Nina Hagen Photo
Me on Brown Ale 5.9
Kyle Koroll Photo
Classic route! Kyle bailed on it so you know it's good. He made it super hard on himself though.
Shining City 11a
Kyle Koroll Photo
Luke stands under the kiosk to get out of the pouring rain after his first day on his first attempt at Cannibus Wall
Mike Cowper Photo
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Yes boys! Bringing it back to life. Thanks! Awesome photos & stories, I'll wait until I have some of my own to share!
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Melissa Manson
Boulder climber
Fairfield, VT
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Jun 16, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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It was nice to see George's name and read some climbing stories.
I still miss him every day! It's great to still see his name in climbing stories 30+ years later.
Thanks, guys!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 16, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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People remember important things.
Here are a couple guys who I think I saw on Sunday Whites.
edit: Then they did Cruel Shoes;.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Hi Melissa. Wow George Manson. Awesome indeed, I never knew him but I too have read the stories and it is nice to meet you.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Nice shots of Jia and our own Special (Bruce) Kay! We got out and did Teetering on the Brink of Madness that afternoon. One of the best on the Apron, although I think it's high time to replace the 1/4" bolts...
EDIT Oh, those shots were from 2005... That's why Jia looks so fresh, he wasn't a dad yet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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That is BK! thought I recognized him. Thanks for that Scrubber. Heard he's climbing with the infamous banned bmacd at the moment.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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B.K. = Belay Kasual
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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Why was bmacd banned? Did I miss something?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Something stemming from the Everest thread. His account has been re-activated but he hasn't posted since his banning may 25th. Come on back Bruce Mac!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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B.K. = Belay Kasual
B.K. = Belay Knap
I think he's having a little nap after climbing the Flake. I sure needed one after climbing it with Nathan on Friday. I had just gotten sick with the cold/flu thing the day before but decided to ignore that petty viral inconvenience and climb anyways. Boy I paid for it. Nearly lost my lunch laying back on it. Nathan led it nice and smooth, even though it was quite a work out for us both. It was kinda wet and slick for the feet, kinda needs a bit of TLC in the scrubbing dept too.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Soloing etiquette seems a delicate subject. Setting a bad example for nOObs, passing, worrying about others dropping themselves or their equipment on you... The list is endless. Maybe it's something best done in private, like some other things. At least, that's what people who solo have suggested to me. I wouldn't know anything about it, myself.
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