The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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domngo

climber
Canada
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:14am PT
well done guys. I've been hearing rumblings about attempts/forays into the DR in the last couple years. Must've been quite the adventure. Very much looking forward to the TR.

We flew by in early summer and snapped some photos of the range.

Dom

Daniel Rivers Valley.

Eldred Valley
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:30am PT
Hey ask Rob about what he climbed in Stave River while he was logging there please!
domngo

climber
Canada
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:49am PT
These decent granite-like walls NNW of Snowside @ Monarch Icefield looked to be quite quality. I believe Oplo or one of the elder heads would know but I think this the Desire range?

wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Drew, Rob climbed nada in Stave aside from a couple high quality "boulders". Thanks Tami always super safe times in the coast! Wow Dom, you really get around the Coast, dang! Keep 'em coming.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
That's the stuff SW of Desire. Desire visible at far right. Bentinck Spire in far distance

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201013900/North-America-Canada-Coast-Mountains-Mt-Desire-East-Ridge
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
Dom you must have a good pic of Taleomey Tower if you're flying that route that regularly?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 24, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
Just browsed the majority of this thread. Super cool. The opening post piqued my interest in "a 50 pitch route on mt Bute" but the link was dead. Googled a bit and found some fantastic photos.

Glad to see some action out there. Magnificent looking place.

https://www.mountainlifemedia.ca/2016/08/school-rock-fifty-pitches-bcs-remote-gem-mt-bute/

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 24, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
School of rock is one of the plum alpine rock climbs in the coast range!

^ FA Jason Sinnes, Jimmy Martinello and Bruce Kay

I was super bummed when the ST admins booted Bkay from the Taco, and deleted all of his posts. Bruce shared a wealth of information and stories here!

I wonder if they had any clue about who and what they were banishing, with a few mouse clicks.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 24, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
I wonder if they had any clue about who and what they were banishing, with a few mouse clicks.

It was suicide by cop. Bruce says he's now comfortably free of his ST political addiction.

But I agree, his climbing contributions were first-rate, and I miss them. And him.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 24, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
^ I'm in the midst of reading his most excellent recent book:

AUTONOMY, MASTERY AND PURPOSE in the Avalanche Patch

http://avalanchepatch.com/

Thanks for all your work and perspective on the subject, Bruce!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2017 - 10:45am PT
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71248/canada_coast_mountain_first_ascents_by_richardson_and_rinn
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 29, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Good article, great news.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 1, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
Such a humbling range with a scale difficult to grasp at times.


Don't seem to have any photos from this summer of Taleomey Tower, My eyeballs always seem to be drawn towards the Monarch & Wadd region when we pass by. I'll have a look at hard drives from last years.


I posted this in the Culbert thread but here's one of The Princess, Page, Monarch, Queen (below), and Throne.


domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 2, 2017 - 11:12am PT
Found one dru

Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Sep 2, 2017 - 09:56pm PT

Hm, im glad I picked up the latest issue of Supertopo Live for my Sat night read.

Thanks all, for the contributions..

Hey Ghost


But I agree, his climbing contributions were first-rate, and I miss them. And him.

If you end up moving to PR you two just might be neighbors :O
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 5, 2017 - 12:49pm PT
I was hoping for some greater Scurlock-style detail.

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/94683006

Fred made the summit ridge but did not summit. No ascents that I know of. One of the few.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 5, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
We just flew by the range again today - here's Taleomey & Ogre from the west.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 6, 2017 - 09:40am PT
Thanks Dom, that's more like what I was lookin for

Foodeater - I pressured the Klite trippers but they are embargoed until publication it seems.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 7, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 15, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
Still looking forward to finding out the deets

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