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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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Werner, if I want to see up close I gotta take my glass off.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Hey hosers! hedge already explained the title. Can't you guys read?! Sheesh.
A6+? Intifada? This picture? BWAHAHAHAHA Ghey shit!
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Luke Malatesta
Trad climber
Moab UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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those guys were in our shop not that long ago (guy and his lady)...apparently they repeated intifada last year and bought a f-ton of #1 peckers and tomahawks for some new route....they were pretty quite about what was going on.....that and bad english.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Anyone here done Intifada?
I know some peeps who've done it. They say Beyer is full of sh#t. Had some pretty good supporting evidence too. Pics, etc. Regardless, A6+ is nothing but an ego grade. Not even possible on the aid scale. Pose on, dear Spaniards... Pose on.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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werner is right. the whole thing is probably a euro poser fest. they probably defecated 10 feet from the base too....covered it with a TP flower...
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fluffy
Trad climber
chainsaw city
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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"A6: (Theoretical grade) A5 climbing with marginal belays which will not hold a fall."
so if we have established that the belay is, in fact, bolted, the climb's A6 rating (by definition) will not stand.
i'm sure the climbing is scary and proud and all that but if creating (or creating the appearance of a) shaky belay to achieve an A6 (or even 6+ rating whatever that means)...that's pretty questionable.
one would hope A6 would mean there were no other options than a belay that would experience total failure in a fall. as someone pointed out, in the fishers there is almost always a drilled pin, bolt, snow picket, whatever to be had. it may not be there 2 weeks but its imminently more safe than a nest of hooks or rps.
foregoing a (relatively) safe belay in order to bump up the grade seems brainless to me. faking such a scenario? brainless AND fraudulent.
(disclaimer: i can't pretend to know the FA party's intentions and i have nothing to go on other than the poorly translated narrative and the few pics)
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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I thought A6 was pulling the anchor after a full pitch fall....
So A6+ must mean you also kill someone on the ground by landing on them with your entire circus.
RAD!!!!!!1111666
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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So A6+ must mean you also kill someone on the ground by landing on them with your entire circus.
Only if the Death Panel™ agrees.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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That is what I am thinking, Russ. This whole thread is an effing mess.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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I move we just have Chris nuke this whole thread. Not because of the poseur stuff. We see that all the time.
I think we need to get rid of all the references to "f**king euros."
Right about now Americans are looking moronic enough without going out of our way to confirm that impression.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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It's not a very polite thing to say about a currency that is key to world economic stability.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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Rawsome!
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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A7 can't be far behind. That's when you fall the full rope length, rip your anchor, and the blast wave from your high velocity descent rips another party off the wall. All parties vaporize on impact leaving a meteor crater at the base.
Ed
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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A7+ is when the rope exceeds the speed of sound as you're falling, so failing to warn the parties below that they're about to be scraped off the wall like a burnt egg off a griddle.
Ed is currently working on this problem of physics: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=335919
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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A8 is a pitch you lead in your mind listening to Ayn Rand on audio. The odds of self inflicting injury is STAGGERING.
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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Or maybe you mean like this?
No?
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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at least they brought an umbrella in case it rains on that lovely Navajo (or whatever) sandstone
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:38am PT
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Jesus that's a sun umbrella! Who uses a sun umbrella? If your not burning you're not having any fun. Proof of european descent is the use of a sun umbrella; they were very popular at Versailles after all... I'm climbing really hard stuff and I need to keep the sun off my cheeks!?
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