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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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May 21, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
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Strong....
I checked out his website. He soloed the Eiger in about the same time it takes to go to a movie.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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May 21, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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TR. My point exactly.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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Coz
I give it to him, of course! He is the kind of guy to downplay it and is the first to mention that slip. Some guys have that iron resolve.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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May 21, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Very proud ascent from a very strong guy, but a fall is a fall. Shouldn't matter that it was a stupid mistake.
Who is to say that Leo's two falls while trying to on-sight El Nino weren't also stupid mistakes?
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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t*r
no one awards onsights, its not like some committee is there to say yay or nay. he could have claimed that he did an onsight when he came down and no one would say nay, and he would probably be insulted if a clibming magazine wrote it as one.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 21, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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What he does in the Alpine World is even more astonishing, and certainly more hair ball.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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May 21, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Yuji took one fall trying to onsight the salathe and Houlding took one fall trying to onsight freerider. DF
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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May 21, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Greg, spot on. What just burns my ass is people seem to think that they have the right to be critical without the experience or the credentials. I am not one of those people who can claim I have the credabiility but props to those that have.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 21, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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t*r - I think we need an explanation of that......
This is very proud indeed!!
None of us have done this... for peet's-sake I've only been on the cap twice and that was just for fun!!!
Cool story
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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May 21, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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yeah, hot and wet.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 21, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Coz wrote
"It is the first on sight of El Cap, no falls. Who cares about a slip on wet 5.11?????
Can we just give it to him? "
In my mind, he's the man. The detail will still be noted cause that's the way things fly.
Some native americans wove perfect baskets and added a tiny flaw out of humility to keep hubris away.
Peace
Karl
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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May 21, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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We can say it was an otherworldly effort on a 41 pitch 5.13b in which he hauled and lead every pitch, but it was not an ONSIGHT.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 21, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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What a send. . . a fall on 'easy' 5.11?
Sheesh, in my dreams!
Way to go, Uli!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 22, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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This is kinda wet. Hmmmm, where's the rope?
This was the 3 hour (?) ascent of the thing to the right of the Walker Spur
Edit:
Please note the copyright watermark: Jonathan Griffith
I just pulled this off another website, all props to Jonathan.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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May 22, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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Respect, is the word.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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May 22, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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Wow.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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May 22, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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Jesus Christ on a crutch.
Years ago I was living in Telluride, and our local Bergfuhrer Antoine Savelli asked me (NB while drinking) if I'd accompany him the following Spring to Yosemite, for a jaunt up El Niño; Leo or the Hubers had just freed it and he wanted to throw his French ass up there for a rotpunkt. Regarding the previous sentence: we were both drinking. Anyway, I said "No, thank you," as I did not have the heart to tell him that though I could swing ice tools with slightly more coördination than a Quebecois roofer, my abilities on granite were relegated to New Hampshire 5.9+. And that was it.
Nice job Ueli.
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Dougald
climber
CO
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May 22, 2009 - 08:02am PT
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To answer a few questions posed:
Ueli hauled because he was leading every pitch and because this was his wife's first big wall, as someone has already pointed out. "The deal with Nicole was that she can sleep on a portaledge, for her a new experience," he told me. So....they were both getting something cool out of the climb! Ueli said the bag was "very heavy," which definitely adds significantly to his achievement.
As for onsight vs. non-onsight, Ueli would never claim the first El Cap onsight for this ascent. However, he points out that he onsighted all the Golden Gate pitches (after leaving the Salathe). I think he was mainly just super-psyched for his ground-up approach.
Cheers,
Dougald
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 22, 2009 - 08:27am PT
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Very cool achievement.
I mean getting his bride to come along on a big wall. And of course he was nearly flawless--it was their honeymoon. Lots of time to screw up later.
What I want to know, is why didn't he use his bride's hair dryer on the wet spot?
Kidding aside, on-sight leading on El Cap's hard stuff is pretty special given the number of hugely talented climbers who have not managed it. This will raise the standards for the few who are close.
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