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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Capo Beach
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I also agree that ratings are very subjective. Some days you just don't want to fall, other times your beggin' to bring it on. Also, I think it depends on the style you do the route in. A relaxing stroll up the mighty stone with your kitchen sink feels WAY different than going in a push.
Anyway, I only read the last category and will only comment on the routes I've done. Here's how I remembered it:
Space
Sea of Dreams
Get Whacked
Reticent
Born Under a Bad Sign
Jolly Roger
Pressure Cooker
Surgeon General
Plastic Surgery Disaster
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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Thanks guys,
Generally I'd say if you're good enough to do a route in the "hard" section than you don't really need to look at this list. It's intended for folks who do the Prow and then see a long line on trade routes, or maybe do a couple, and are then wondering about all the other routes out there.
Fogarty--Lost World is a good route. I talked to Steve "the spewer" in the meadow a month or so back after doing SqueezePlay(did Lost World last fall) and he listed off several friends who had climbed the route(for those who like hardman history Steve claimed that he took Eric George up Lost World for his first El Cap climb). I would guess Lost World has seen 20 ascents and maybe 3-5 for Squeeze Play.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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Fogarty--are you saying Walt Shipley placed those bolts on Lost World. Man, they look new! I've been working on replacing all the bolts. Proud ethic those guys had putting that thing up every bolt with a hanger.....can be expensive to emulate in modern terms(I just think of those future happy free climbers, hahaha).
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Bermuda Dunes probably belongs in the Intermediate-Hard, and not Hard category. I thought it was only a bit more severe than Excalibur. It's a great route, and I'm surprised it doesn't get more traffic.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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Thanks Tom--now we're getting somewhere.
Would you agree with that Pete?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Erik, I am not quite sure how to answer your question. If we follow Chris' McLogic - that Muir Wall deserves to be in a harder catagory because of its length and sustained nature, rather than technical difficulty - then what about Bermuda Dunes? It is a very long route, with a lot of different types of climbing, much of it sustained at a high standard, but only one really desperate place.
"I thought [Bermuda Dunes] was only a bit more severe than Excalibur..."
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! That's because *YOU* didn't lead the crux pitch! I seemed to remember it being kinda hard, and looked up my notes and I have it down as PDH/DFU. Bermuda Dunes is quite a bit harder than Excalibur in many respects.
Then I looked a bit closer, and in one place I have written, "80'+ fall potential, could rip right to belay!" But that was then, and this is now. And nowadays I have some great big Peckers on my rack, and I'll bet you my pecker that I could get at least one of those bad boys somewhere in that eighty feet, whip a screamer on it, and make the pitch "easier". It's just a new tool in the arsenal that I didn't have when I was up there.
But Tom's right - there's a lot of superb moderate climbing on the route, and if you buy yourself a pair of Valley Giants, you are guaranteed to have a good time. Tom and I replaced a bunch of the anchor bolts, including the ones on the Monster Cracks.
So to answer Erik's query, I think I would have to keep Bermuda Dunes in the hard catagory, but towards the easier end.
It is interesting to get Ammon's take on Reticent and Jolly Roger, both of which he climbed several years after my '98 and '99 ascents respectively. At the time I climbed the routes, I thought Reticent to be a bit harder than JR, but no doubt they were both PDH with plenty of DFU sections.
Glad to see Born Under a Bad Sign is high on the list - yay. I am trying to pretent I am "bad" by climbing "bad" routes, when in fact I am just a big wall camper. Accordingly, does anyone know anything about Bad to the Bone? It looks, um, bad.
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Conrad
climber
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How about the El Cap free climbs by difficulty? This seems to be the future.
It might be neat to have the nail ups listed in terms of what could hold free climbing potential. Inspire to be as free as can be.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Conrad's right. Is there knott another thread about El Cap Free Climbs, that Chris McStarted, but everyone has McNored?
I told Alex and Thomas that Bermuda Dunes has TREMENDOUS potential for free climbing.
Cheers,
Pete
Big Wall Parvenu
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Hole World has this had a second? and are there any others?
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goatboy smellz
climber
dirty south
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Conrad, you can see a list of free El Cap routes on Clint Cummins website;
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
I don’t know if anyone has made a list of plausible free routes in the valley but it would be interesting to see the possibilities.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Chris, I agree the MUIR, Knot a beginer Captian route, From my day that beginer intermediate bunch is prety stout,Eagles way, Trip Mescalito,but what do I know im 44 years old and it's been 10 years since that big stone, raitings do change with the more ascent each route gets, im sure glad most of mine were early ones starting in 1982..
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Bump Muir up. It's either hard clean climbing or easy nailing, but any route with nailing doesn't really fit in the Easy category.
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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Nanook,
my four trips up are all on your "easy" list. good by me. i had a ball every time; i do kinda remember working my ass off. i guess it all depends what you are searching for.
me, i found what i was searching for -- and then some. big magic.
^,,^
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Disorderly Conduct
Hiya, Pip......You're a Dog! Too Cool.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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turning point? never seen a repeat? another GrossMAN thriller?(central srutinizer= grossman) not that I belong on any Grossman route or have done anything but some "easy" routes (thought all were hard enough for me)
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