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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Jun 30, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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No...the "Lenticular Limbo Guys" did not drill any bolts, nor did they even think about carrying a bolt kit...puhleeze...we were good climbers enjoying a short alpine rock adventure...
Nice job Hoots on the climb and the topo above, was how I remembered it!
Peter
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Finally got on it yesterday. Awesome route! The first pitch is definitely the crux. Sustained and a very pumpy warm-up. However, the hardest moves are probably on the 3rd pitch where you have to layback a rounded edge with tiny gear way below you feet. There is an RP with a broken cable there that is nearly impossible to see because it's so small - definitely makes you think before casting out on that section! We managed to do the whole route in 4 pitches with a 60 m rope. You can stretch the 2nd pitch all the way to just below the 10d. The last is still the money pitch!
P.S.: I saw chalk on some of the cruxes, so I guess it gets done a bit.
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This shortcut only takes an extra 3 hours
Trad climber
Santa Barbara
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Apr 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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OK... I've held off for 33 years. But it's time to confess. The reason it was going to be called Tugboat Annie was that Peter had to pretty much haul me up the whole thing. Whoever said we were "hardmen" on another website should revise that to "hardman". Peter. I was just the domestique on the job. I completely forgot any and all details until the pictures here.... Ah yes... That touchy little leftward traverse. You can really get launched with a wall smacker if you start too low. That was a blast. All done with hip belays and hexagonal nuts.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 25, 2016 - 12:33am PT
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Ed H wrote:
There is a climb on Ferdinand's Point, Minotar 5.8 put up by Claude Fiddler and Rich Cashner, 7/85... but no information, just where is Ferdinand's Point?
I believe Ferdinand's Point and the Dogs Head on Mt Dana are one and the same.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2016 - 11:29am PT
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just where is Ferdinand's Point? Would this be another name for Ferdinand's Nose? Or vice-versa.
This is the notable craggy outcrop that looks down on Tioga Pass from the north slope of Mt Dana. It's visible from the road for a couple of miles each direction.
Although since it was Ed who posed the question I may be way off base.
Trivia question of the week, no old-timers may apply:
Where does the name come from?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 25, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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Wasn't he the park ranger at Tioga Pass for as long as anyone can remember.
 Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 25, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Wasn't he the park ranger at Tioga Pass for as long as anyone can remember.
Eric Gabel
Yes, Eric, Ranger Ferdinand was a feature at the Tioga Pass Entrance Station for decades. He always individually saluted each tourist as they passed through the gate and added, "Watch for deer on the road" before they drove on. One of the lunch burgers at TPR is still named after him, as "The Ferdinand".
The Park Service busted him down and people said that contributed to his demise of heart problems down in San Jose shortly after they reassigned him to Crane Flat. Some say the problem was the much younger woman he lived with in his residence up at the Pass. Raised official eyebrows, but like Schultz on Hogan's Heroes, "I know nothing!"
When he passed, it was definitely the end of an era. "Fin de siecle, fin du monde." Unforgettable character. Pure Yosemite BITD. There must be thousands of stories and anecdotes. One of a kind!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Okay, draw in all the routes on the Third Pillar, including the Third Pillar route itself. That show how all the routes fit together. Where are Peter Croft's variation to the left of the normal Third Pillar route?
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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I'll draw the lines of the other routes in on these photos, as they have better lighting or are from further back than your photo and show the features a little better.
Yeah, Clint, good public service. That should put matters to rest. Except don't you think there must be some unreported routes to the left of the Regular 3rd Pillar route? You must have seen Peter Croft's topo of the variations to the left. What about further left still? Maybe they haven't been done yet? Who knows.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Bruce,
I added the full overlay photo to my post above.
I don't know about routes to the left,
except I heard you can rappel down that side. Haven't tried it.
I have climbed the Regular Route (2005), and the 5.8 version of the Direct Var. (2001).
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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I did the Third Pillar Regular Route in 1975 and can't remember much except for the last 2 pitches where the business is.
That second picture with the lines drawn in nails it. All it needs now is a hand-drawn detailed topo ala Don & Falk. But this certainly sets matters straight.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Now that I've drawn the overlay, I want to go back there and climb all the pitches I haven't done yet!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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me too! Thanks for the beta, Bro's!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Third Pillar Prancer here too
Why's Donini always busting on it though?
I really wish the folks who took me up there were lurkin' here.
We did a thing we wanted call it
'(four)4 Fur Balls In A Hard Place'
we all four fell off at the same place, so it was hard 5.11
looking at the pics isn't helping but I think it struck off left
After a pitch or two from the easier (alternate) Start?
There would be a two knife blade bail point, at the top of a (ten foot?) Seamless groove capped by a band of black rock?
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