Climbing on Mt. Baldy

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SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber

Baldy

Jun 27, 2012 - 04:43am PT

Are the holds on those boulders still covered in axle grease?

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Jun 27, 2012 - 08:43am PT

covering rocks in a drainage with axle grease--sounds like some sort of infraction to me. i'd do some complaining. there are trout in that stream.

Gneel

climber

Dec 1, 2013 - 09:12pm PT

Driving up to Baldy Village, past the tunnels and below the town, Barrett-Stoddard Road is on the right (east). This old paved road follows the canyon. There are several bolted crags along this canyon, though finding information about them is nearly impossible. Does anybody have any info about these crags? One crag, below the road in a deep cut in stream, has about a dozen sport routes on an overhanging wall. Another crag, on a tall, reddish granite wall further down the road and high up on the east side of the canyon, has a purple and yellow portaledge hanging from it. What's up?

john bald

climber

Dec 1, 2013 - 11:12pm PT

Sorry to hear about the axle grease. Thought the problems Tobin shared with us were slick enough. Worked my smooth rock skills at Baldy and Mallard. Flashed back to Baldy a couple of weeks ago when climbing on waterpolish in a slot near Vegas.

cgk

Boulder climber

Mt Baldy

Jun 17, 2015 - 11:26pm PT

Hi all,
please be aware that the land below the school all the way to the Edison Station is privately owned. We have had many people walk down the stream looking for good spots to climb not realizing ( some knowing) that they are walking through our back yard. Please be respectful and aware of places that are Forest Service land v.s private.
P.S. Dickhead property owners can call the cops if people trespass.
Thank you,
CGK

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Jun 18, 2015 - 06:23am PT

The boulders in the stream bed are on private property? The landowners are allowed to pollute the watershed with axle greese?

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Jun 18, 2015 - 06:31am PT

Any climbers that live up there should be informing the forrest service about the Hazmat conditions the landowner has created. Walking up and down the stream bed is trespassing?

cgk

Boulder climber

Mt Baldy

Jun 18, 2015 - 07:57pm PT

Yes we noticed the grease as well. It was about the same time we found two men spray painting the rocks just below the school. Yes, going on private property without the owner's permission is trespassing. Just because our backyard doesn't look like yours doesn't mean it is not our backyard. Have a little respect. Or, give me your address and I'd be happy to pay a visit and let you know what it's like. It's not just climbers who respect the mountain coming here. It's really scary people who threaten us (have had guns pointed at me). If we let one group of people go where they want, others will follow.
Respectfully,
Mt. Baldy resident

Jefe'

Boulder climber

Bishop

Jun 19, 2015 - 02:16pm PT

Jefe'

Boulder climber

Bishop

Jun 19, 2015 - 02:17pm PT

Jefe'

Boulder climber

Bishop

Jun 19, 2015 - 02:18pm PT

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Jun 19, 2015 - 02:19pm PT

So is there a line in the sand or is it mean high tide mark?

You might consider that letting a very few boulderers a couple feet over
the line and being nice to them could actually work to your benefit.

zBrown

Ice climber

Jun 19, 2015 - 07:59pm PT

It has been argued that streams flow into the ocean and therefore they are in fact public property. I suggest that you take it up with the Coastal Commission.

To Report a Poacher or Polluter

If you witness a poaching or polluting incident or any fish and wildlife violation, or have information about such a violation, immediately dial the toll free CalTIP number 1 888 334-CALTIP (888 334-2258), 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Or you may submit anonymous tips to CDFW using tip411. tip411 an internet based tool from CitizenObserver.com that enables the public to text message an anonymous tip to wildlife officers and lets the officers respond back creating an anonymous two-way conversation. Anyone with a cell phone may send an anonymous tip to CDFW by texting "CALTIP", followed by a space and the message, to 847411 (tip411).

Or download the free CALTIP smartphone App which operates similarly to tip411 by creating an anonymous two-way conversation with wildlife officers to report wildlife and pollution violations. The CALTIP App can be downloaded for free via the Google Play Store and iTunes App Store.

Be prepared to give the fullest possible account of the incident including the name, address, age and description of the suspect, vehicle description, direction of travel, license number, type of violation and when and where it occurred. You do not have to give your name.

Information from the call is relayed to the CDFW region where the offense occurred and an investigation is undertaken locally. If the information supplied by the caller results in an arrest the caller becomes eligible for a reward. (Rewards up to $1,000 have been paid.) The case is then reviewed by a volunteer citizen's group known as the "CalTIP Rewards Committee".

CalTIP rewards come entirely from donations, no state funds are used. The CalTIP Rewards Committee, not CDFW, receives and administers these funds. Money not used for the payment of rewards goes toward furthering CalTIP's educational goals.

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Jun 20, 2015 - 08:10am PT

The boulders in the stream bed, where most of them are located, are on public property and can be accessed by walking up or down the streambed.
One of the Mt. Baldy residents smeared axle grease on most of the boulders in the streambed. The suspected landowner is named Wingate and the Forest service should be investigating this environmental crime.

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Jun 20, 2015 - 11:08am PT

I understand cgk's position about wanting some privacy in his backyard, albeit a big one it sounds like. The problem with permitting access is that not everyone is a considerate user. For every quiet, low impact user, there will be trash, booms boxes and the loud "woo people" that you hear every weekend at Josh. Having said that, some of the former owners appeared to have been xenophobic weirdos that would prefer to deface the area than have people use it. Reminds me of some folks who lived out on Blackstar Road in the Santa Ana Mts. who hassled everyone who biked by, claiming it was private property.

Also, I'm curious about the claim that a watershed is public property. Might be, but I haven't found a source to support that claim. For example, does it have to navigable, egress to the ocean, etc. Interesting question.

rmuir

Social climber

From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.

Jun 20, 2015 - 12:28pm PT

Access to the Baldy Boulders has been a problem for forty years… The "owners" and the Barrett Family have continued to deny access to some of the most unique bouldering in the area.

Not too long ago, we got hassled by some local in a pickup truck who claimed to be friends of the owners. As this asshat drove away, we noticed the the rude goldberg had a Mammut sticker on his rear window. …a climber who habituates down at Hanger 18.

I wonder if he knew he was feeding crap to Darrell Hensel, Robs Muir, and Bob Bolton? Three guys who have, collectively, 125 years of experience and were climbing there before he was born.

rmuir

Social climber

From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.

Jun 20, 2015 - 12:30pm PT

Across the stream from B Boulder.

cgk

Boulder climber

Mt Baldy

Jun 20, 2015 - 12:44pm PT

Cool pics-
Here is what I found on the subject- we have riparian rights (water rights) which complicates the matter-

California
California was the first state to apply the public trust doctrine to environmental resources, but unlike Montana, California has not extended the doctrine to include public access to non-navigable waterways. Interestingly, however, each county’s board of supervisors has the authority to contract for public access rights along certain non-navigable waterways. but this statutory authority at least recognizes the private property rights of riparian landowners. In California there is no right to trespass across private property to access navigable waters, and county roads serve as public access points only to navigable waterways.

See more at: http://www.perc.org/articles/stream-access-across-west#sthash.lYH43xtc.dpuf

The main issue is crossing our property to get to and from the boulders. With the research we have done there is some grey area when it comes to fishermen walking up or down the stream, but that's about it.
Thanks for all the opinions and keeping this a conversation. As to the grease, as the owners of the property, we would not allow anything to hurt the stream. (I'm sad all the trout were washed down when we had the flood event last August) We have kept quite a few people from tagging, dumping trash and believe it or not living down by the stream (with campfires and all.)
Thank you,
CGK