Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 04:45pm PT
|
Have I got this right? You do anything you want then pull the rope and lead the route (I presume in the upward direction). During the first phase do you chip holds and place bolts or other additional protection you need? Are clips to the protection also preplaced?
I first heard of redpoint about the time I also first heard "onsight". Back then some of the leading onsight people were climbing barefoot while carrying not more than four nuts and a half dozen biners. Many times less.
Before all of this we pretty much had a ball going scrambling on the weekends. Just concentrating on the fundamentals is unalloyed fun.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
|
"lieback OWs,..."
No need to get personal...
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
|
That's the radio in your super beetle, Donny.
HTH
|
|
Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
the dentist's chair...drooling on myself.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
|
It's not a Beetle....it's a Cabriogay...I mean Cabriolet.
ROCK 'n ROLL!!
|
|
ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
|
To answer Russ's question. YEP. Gear racked in Order. Gear placements Ticked, Foot and hand placements Ticked, Sometimes gear is even preplaced. probably have saved myself some long falls and a few less injury's if not going for the onsight all the time. Headpointing is cool.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
|
Really save yourself then and just toprope it..... ticks, preplaced, headpoints = ghey (nttiawwt) even if you are on the Zodiac.
|
|
Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:02pm PT
|
ghey is the new straight.
ropes R aid.
boldering is 4 weakmos only.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
|
AC: this is climbing related. Maybe you should go back and monitor one of your poli link posts.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
|
Back to Russ's first question: wouldn't it be redpointing when
I go back and do a good lead of a climb I failed on last year?
|
|
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
|
about five letter grades
wait,
I mean number grades
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
|
Scruffy: not unless you left in all the pro, with no biners on the pieces... with biners, it's a pink point.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
|
This is all so confusing. "Vhy can't ve chust climb?"
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
|
Well, what would it be? A good lead, but not my first attempt.
Or even first vist. In fact I even tried and failed on toprope
after I gave up leading. But I expect to walk up to it and lead
it. What's that called?
|
|
Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2007 - 02:52am PT
|
Climbing?
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2007 - 03:10am PT
|
Two, maybe three--sometimes four, but only on a day when the planets are in line.
|
|
ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2007 - 04:37pm PT
|
Free soloing is cool. Until you fall. I mean Hit the Ground.
NO really Russ. IMHO, Headpointing is fun. It can be a very analytical, calculated, guessemating, Risk. Figuring out it that #5 rp will really hold a 20ft fall or if you can keep your sh#t together where you really don't need to test it can be very exciting. Also, Realitively Low impact on the environment for the most part and It's left for whatever the next team of climbers want to make of it. Tope rope it? Decide it's unsafe and drill? Call it a pile and move on? or whatever?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!