Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jeff Gorris
climber
Not from Portlandia
|
|
Wasn't ZZZZZ rated "5.8" at some point? Either way, 100% classic and bold-hard.
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
My first climb in JT was a 5.8 around Hidden Valley "Double Cross" (?) and I almost cratered from 30 feet up.
That's why we added the bolt.
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I did crater on Double Cross when one of those chossy footholds broke while I was tying off the broken bong that was there at the time. I was 13, light and flexible, so no real damage.
Energy Crisis was a total sandbag @ F8
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
Zig Zag on Intersection Rock
|
|
F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
Zig Zag used to be F7 5.7
I always thought Deviate was pretty hard when it was rated F8 5.8
Its a 10a now
|
|
little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
|
|
Pinched Rib. Sandbag,even back in the day. Aloha.
we'd often get the campsite under Pinched Rib. Always made for great entertainment watching people flail while we relaxed in the camp chairs with a few after-climb beers
|
|
hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
|
|
I don't know about hardest.....but my FAVORITE 5.8 at joshua tree is for sure
The Flake !!!!!!
And yes it would feel hard if you are not versed in all styles of climbing
chimney at the bottom which narrows to squeezy thing
some liebacking / crack climbing to the top of the flake
and of course bumpy slab finish
great climb
|
|
Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
|
|
Climbing 'The Flake' as one pitch is fun. But I remember a ton of rope drag at the top when you are doing those last friction/face moves.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
there is an overhanging hand crack in the Dacks @ the beer walls that they called a 5.8. I put my southern Colorado desert rat friend on it. IC was his home crag. did not tell him the grade just asked him what he thought after he hiked it. . the answer was 10b
|
|
Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
|
Clutch and Cruise? The definition of 5.8d.
Sorry for the thread drift.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
I seem to recall a discussion about how 5.8+ usually turns out to be sandbag.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Gilroy. that would be it. just plain Stupid ego crap INMOP. My friend had zero skin in the game, no Idea what the grade was supposed to be and has done thousands of routes in the desert. primrose dihedrals, all that stuff. He casually hiked it and thought it was 10b.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
Music Box, Belle Campground. Some call it 5.10a. It's the business.
Always thought Leader's Fright was stiff as well. Basically a solo when I first did it back in high school. Didn't Dick Webster first lead that one. 5.7...
First time I tried Dogleg I didn't know how to jam and spanked.
Waterchute used to be rated 5.9 and it felt like the hardest free climb on earth when I first followed Ricky Accomazzo up it when we was kids.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
Bikini whale.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Music Box, Belle Campground. Some call it 5.10a. It's the business.
I've been lurking on this thread fruitless for an answer, but there it is. Not 5.7, not 5.9. Just full value 5.8.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Would a full value 5.8 be a mediocre 5.9 because it didn’t pass the hardman rating test? I feel that there is way too much emphasis on the rating a climb wears rather than on the quality of the climbing it provides.
Ratings are like clothing....they are arbitrarily chosen and hide what is the real essence of what lies underneath.
Then again...most people do look consierably better with their clothes on.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
Hey Kris- I was trying to find that really funny post you made at one point about how difficulty ratings REALLY line up numerically at J-Tree. It was sort of spot on. LOL.
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
Pinched Rib was one of the 1st routes I did on my initial visit to Josh. I felt pretty spanked on it. The most memorable thing about my struggle were some children running about through the campground yelled up, “You guys don’t have to go that way, we found an easy way to the top!”
 ec
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
I can't decide, although there are many good ones named up-thread.
I've done a couple "5.8's" since the new Gordo guide came out that were ruthless sandbags.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!