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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
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Mike: I can remember that Dave Caunt offered to add a bolt to "Sweet Suspicion", but Yerian wouldn't listen to a word of it. I think he even went back years later and led it again to emphasize his point.
I actually thought Al Dude should have bolted up that 5.10d TR on Dinosaur Crag as a sport route. But because there was a bolted 5.11b friction route just to the left, Al thought it should remain a TR and a TR it remains to this day. Besides there are a bunch of cracks on Dinosaur Crag that can be led with trad gear. The 2 TRs are a bunch of fun though.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 30, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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Actually Bruce my toproping of that route precluded me from bolting or leading it according to the prevailing ethic of the day. Someone else on sight leading this tr would be fine by me!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 09:53pm PT
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You mean on-sight ground-up hand-drilled (OSGUHD), if I get your drift, Dude?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 30, 2016 - 10:34pm PT
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Pretty much Bruce....although I believe power drills are legal in the National Forest!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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Sure are, Al. You betcha!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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May 31, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Great to see your book is out. I will order a copy today.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 11:05am PT
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You're featured prominently in there, friend Urmas. One TR, two lead shots. So you better get a copy for the historical record!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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Bump for shameless self-promotion.
Demonology (5.10b dihedral):
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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Another lead shot of a route on the Spillway Crag:
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Another pic to wet you appetite for high-altitude slab foonting:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Is it all clear of snow at this point?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2016 - 12:12am PT
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Don't know but would bet not entirely clear yet. TPR is opening a week late (tomorrow) due to wet spring and deep snow. Dinosaur Crag is probably dry though. Demonology Cliff Band seems to be dry all the time.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
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Urmas Franosch leads the FA of "Pearly Queen" (5.11c thin) on the upper right-hand side of the Dinosaur Crag.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 21, 2016 - 11:37am PT
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Hey Lynne, Bruce or anyone - is the guidebook at TPR or in Mammoth?
thx.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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I just delivered 10 copies last week to Lynne up at Tioga Pass Resort, so there should be some still up there unless they sold out already. I'll bring some more when I go up to TM next week; that is, when I get my car back from the body shop in San Carlos. Hit a deer on the way up last time and took out my windshield and dented the bumper and smashed the hood. Don't worry I've got comprehensive!
The Ellery Guide is available on Amazon, Planet Granite and soon at REI stores (I've got to go to UPS today with a big order from REI).
Maybe Lynne will chime in and say if there are any copies left at TPR?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Possibly heading up there soon. i would assume you make a bit more if I buy it at TPR, plus any you don't make goes to another Tacopian?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 12:48am PT
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Same ROI (return on investment) for me no matter where you by it. Except Amazon where they have a 55% author's discount. Cheap aren't they? REI, Planet Granite and TPR all pay me the same wholesale price.
I just don't think you can make much money on a guidebook unless you own your own press to cut out printers' costs. I do like the idea of buying the book at TPR then going down the road a half-mile and climbing the routes. Then come back for pie a la mode with coffee. Maybe TPR will start handling chalk blocks to make up for the TM Mountain Store closing? Hint! Hint!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Is there dispersed camping allowed on Power Plant road? Looking at G-maps it looks like there are numerous opportunities.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Miss Ter E said "Top Rope Cover shot ?" from the mouth of a RAP bolter lolol!!! I like the cover shot Bruce!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Hi Bruce,
cool looking book. We did a few routes on the ridges above that area that were quite good. I've posted them on Supertopo before (I think?)
Anyways, here they are and feel free to add them to your book if you want. The photo is poor quality, but the 3 left most routes are good. The right one, not as good..
Here is another shot looking up canyon. The ridge on the left is over a mile long and ends up right next to Third Pillar of Dana. The rock is good and amazingly not loose on all three of these routes. A short rope, a set of stoppers and some good approach shoes is all that is necessary for these routes.
 Eric Gabel
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