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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
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Awesome story. Thank you.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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Gripped. Gripping.
Susan
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
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Seminal moment in climbing lore..
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
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Great stuff, as usual, Jim.
This is a story that will always be, no matter if anyone
ever climbs it.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
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hearing it from the horse's mouth is like hearing about Little Bighorn from Custer himself.
Im pretty sure Jim was at that one too.
Ive heard of this story before, but it's really nice having the pics.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 11, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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This is the stuff!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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Mike....Abalakov died in 1986 and his thread system started being used in the US in the late 60's. We used them on Latok several times.
We used 50 meter ropes.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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[holy f*#k.ing shit]
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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A great story of success when lives were at stake and the odds were against. It does make me feel a little better about my own prospects when things look grim.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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Did Greg Low and Jello come up with v threads? Jello has talked about it on this forum before.
Probably the most noble bail ever done (and maybe one of best routes ever), with a good ending to boot. I kind of hope this is never climbed.
All of you guys are super strong but this is one more confirmation that George was THE MAN and Jello is still proving today the he is one tough character. I have to see Metanoia when it makes its way up north
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Jim & Jim stories.... Donini & Bridwell. Jim, I've taken a lot of Bridwell road trips and been so lucky to hear many of his stories, I'd LOVE to take one with both you and listen to those stories!
Peace
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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One of the great climbing epics. A retreat for all of us to consider and remember. We can get into dire straights without really making any mistakes. Sometimes Fate and Mother Nature just take over. We don't leave someone behind. The Brotherhood of the Rope.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
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So even if you're rapping off single anchors, how do you carry enough hardware and webbing to do 85 of them? Must have been some slung blocks and such, maybe the occasional V-thread, but still 85 raps is beyond my imagination. Inspiring judgement on the part of you all to have survived all those single point anchors.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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HHMMM what was that I said? about Our Big brother ,Jim D?
Thanx for warning us of the extreme side as well as the sublime mountains.
Wow amazing hard to the core and a gripping write up.
Distilled, the deep sauce, lucky
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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Too many people are lost every year this way, many more than need be.
I'm curious how many "need be." Are some necessary?
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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jdo ftw!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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I have heard about the pounded in conduit, but I am having a hard time visualizing it. Anyone have pictures or want to explain.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Excellent Jim. Thanks!
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c wilmot
climber
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:52am PT
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If not in the works already an autobiography would be a fantastic read.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 12, 2015 - 01:04am PT
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The stuff of legends.
More please.
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