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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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as long as we are in the idle speculation mode, here is what it looks like around there. The climbing where there is no gear is really easy. If you fell toward the end of that rising leftward traverse, you probably would not pull the low gear. If they fell part way up the unprotected section then the lower gear could be pulled. It might not be a 40' fall in that case, but it would be a plenty-long fall just the same!
When someone hears how the fallen climber is doing please post up! Best wishes.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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OW. Glad he will recover.
I've been in situations dozens of times that could have ended up that way.
@Ron - John 8:7.....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Good.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Seems this happens a lot in the same spot...
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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i thought the MO here was to fix perfectly good gear on the route and leave it behind. you could weld a few cheapo nuts into place and it would have an au natural look, no?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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squishy,
You know of other accidents on BR?
The Line ears a few people most years, but BR??? I'm only aware of a few problems on pitch 3 pulling the little roof (protect with cams, not nuts. The nuts ALWAYS lift out there).
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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Oh yeah, the first belay. I think a few have taken a dive off that ledge.
Bummer.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Sep 10, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Fact: There were a lot less people climbing at the Leap in 1978
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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Lucky gumbie. Just more evidence that we need to hurry up and grid bolt east wall.
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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Not spraying
maybe you're not spraying but you sure do post that video up every chance you get...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
Yep, don't go there. Nothing worthwhile.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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zacly
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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I'm going to support Ron on this one point- the craft is IMPORTANT. I don't care how many people are climbing these days. I know my nutcraft but still defer to cams. You better believe that I runner those cams so that they don't walk in the tapers and flares common to the Leap.
If I can factor one/half onto a purple C3, or a micro brassy, then there is no excuse for ripping medium sized gear that should be bomber, and at a smaller fall factor to boot. The gear these days is fukking amazing if you use it right.
Here's to a speedy recovery for the injured, and a profound new relationship with his or her craft from here on out.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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We had a few like that in the Wasnatch... most notably Satan's Corner... a classic 5.8+... I think that is about Tahoe 5.11. Killed more than one novice climber. I still remember the blood stained rock at the base back in the mid-90s. Tragic.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with a "reach" either...but YMMV? The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:10am PT
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I agree with Roger as well. I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.
When I ran SAR out here for the NPS, I was on a number of rescues that resulted in severe injuries and deaths due to things like ripped gear, getting way off route, rap accidents, belay accidents etc.
Couple these factors with huge number of climbers and it's no surprise people are getting hurt all the time.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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Monday should have a permanent thread for posting the latest accident at Lovers Leap.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
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Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
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