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micronut
Trad climber
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Ahhh....der Matterhunk. Zis is on ze list for chur. Ze rock...she has a bad....how you say...."reputacion"....but who hasn't danced wit zee girl wit zee bad reputacion before eh?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Too bad all the rocks are covered with lichen flakes, and it's scorching hot in the summer. Would be really nice if it were open all year!
There is some good rock on North Dome, Grand Sentinel, The Sphinx, Bubbs Creek Wall, anything above 6000 feet elevation is usually good to go. But in the canyon it's pretty scrappy...I'd love to check out some of the new routes, like that Roaring River one.
How about The Grand Dike?
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Matterhunk is so beautiful. Def on the list. And it's not like there are about 5 other aretes just like it or bigger.
Gross said he was going to include some bouldering and ice climbing in his guide.
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ec
climber
ca
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Herb, Leversee and I climbed the Matterhunk arête. The stone on that was as good as granite. 'Lots of cool climbing. In the Moser Guide, Vernon slams it. However, he never seemed to keen on route finding, so consider the source.
 ec
There's an impressive limestone massif across the river. Leversee did it and found that Mark Powell, et al had done it in the way back...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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Yikes, I've spent lots of time on the marble up yonder and I don't trust the stuff. I'd climb it with someone, but I'd wear double helmets and a parachute.
Grand dike
If you're talking about the actual Grand Dike up Grizzly Creek, it looks like a fun adventure but I haven't checked out the rock up close.
If you're talking about the giant marble fin that some refer to as Grand Dike across from Boyden Cavern and the Matterhunk, that arete would be an EPIC adventure!
Edit: EC, you know any more about the climb on the big boy above? It looks awesome.
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ec
climber
ca
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A route on the Matterhunk slab would totally be doable. The limestone is solid.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
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It's cost a fair chunk of change in hardware though. How about the big rock that Leversee (and Powell) did? Any more details? That's the one in the pic right there ^^^
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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And just how does one get across the river to get to the Matterhunk either
alive or without having to bushwack 5 miles?
I'm pretty sure you don't cross here...
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I've never climbed limestone in the states, I should remedy that!!!
Looks beautiful! Is it edgy, sharp, and pockety like I'd expect?
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ec
climber
ca
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I'll have to hit Leversee up for info. I'm pretty sure they crossed the river in the autumn tho...
ec
Edit: Brandon, not pocketed, but runnels, edges and cracks.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Both of the limestone crags look really good. I've always been surprised there aren't a bunch of long bolted routes on those things. Or maybe there are by now?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Matterhunk is not the one pictured above with the large white rock scar on it.
Or, at least, the Hickey photo on pg. 162 in the Moser Vernon guide shows it being a different rock formation.
The pics and responses above make it seem like the one with the white scar is it. Just wanted to clarify.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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That's correct Munge. The pic micronut posted is the right one. The one with the white pterodactyl poop on it is across the canyon. The arete looks longer than the Matterhunk.
Gross was telling Crab and I there is some kind of ceiling for drills. So at some point you have to do bolts with only hand drills. Those marble walls are calling someone to invest.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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The white scar rock is across the river. I don't know what it's called but it looks good.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Holy chit!
Munge we gotta go get that mother NOW!
All these bastards are swarming on the marble, sharpening the bitz for the Ridge blitz.
It all looked 5.9 from behind my SNPA.
GET SOME
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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roger that. River crossing this time of year would be a hassle bad photo opportunity.
But don't think I'm not getting into kings this year. It's on. Think I got the Cpeer willing to heckle from the ground at least. LOL
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I wonder if anyone's been up the North Face of The Grand Sentinel in the last few years? I have heard that the "Robbins/Chouinard" route, also called "The Green Dihedral" goes free at 5.10c.
I went up there with a partner to try it once, but the 1st pitch was dripping wet and mossy so we didn't do it. Looks really good, and this is a dry year so wetness may not be an issue. The face stays in the shade most of the day, so the usual Kings Canyon heat is not an issue, as long as you do the approach in the morning.
http://www.summitpost.org/robbins-chouinard-route/157006
Here's my picture of the Grand Dike.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Ya I'd be curious to know if anyone's been up Grand Sentinel recently. I'm gonna guess nobody has, but you never know. Where did you hear the regular route has been freed? That would be awesome! The old guide has "Royal Flush" free at 10c but it only shares the first few pitches with the regular route and I don't think it's had a second ascent.
Looks like we've done the same trail, but you got a way better picture of grand dike! All those little towers have been climbed, but the west faces are a little taller and I'm sure there's more there for a few adventurous masochists.
so the usual Kings Canyon heat is not an issue
When you grow up in an oven Kings Canyon feels great by comparison all summer!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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It was at least 10 years ago, we were hanging out messing with climbing gear in the parking lot at Roads End, and a guy in a pickup truck stopped to talk with us and ask us what we were climbing. He seemed to know a lot about climbing in Kings Canyon, and he told us it went free, and he called it The Green Dihedral. I don't remember his name though. Maybe he was just trolling us! The approach to the Grand Sentinel climbs up through one of the most awesome talus slopes in the canyon, with boulders the size of houses.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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It was prob Phil Gross. He has worked up there for 15 years he said.
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