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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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Edit: Should we start a pool on how long the rust streak will eventually be?
I'm in. 32 feet 6 1/2 inches or in meters 9.9186999999999976296
How much is the pool and where do I send the money. Or since I will be the winner do you want my bank account info so you can just make a direct deposit?
Plaid
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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Agree with Donini
I wanna go down there and climb but the narco murders are too random, senseless, and frequent.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
takin' the scenic route to Montana
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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This seems somewhat ridiculous. Anyone ever hear of a hanging belay?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:41am PT
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One works within the established ethics of the location. Seems fine to me. There is a place for just about anything out there somewhere. Even a Via Ferrata can be fun sometimes.
The OP pretty much summed it up in the Title.
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Anyone here ever see a 'cactus jack'? The 'tool' used to 'install' routes there?
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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It should at least be painted.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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Cactus fell off leaving a very uncomfortable belay......perish the thought, now it's time to add a seat and how about a sun canopy.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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+1 for the Donini comment, I would LOVE to go, but not anytime in the foreseeable future...
The ledge is lame
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Hmm.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:49am PT
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but what if the sun is in your eyes? Where's the bolted umbrella stand?
...that 'comfort ledge' is not thought all the way through.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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U guys have never been to Potrero. I guess since it's Mexico and the Mexicans don't care its OK for you not to care.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Care?
I've long ago stopped worrying about Bolts or stuff like this in general. In some places they are a faux-pas and some places not. As far a serious ethical issue on the human scale they just don't compare to the gasoline I burnt getting to em.
Although I've never been, one of the reasons I really want to go to Mexico is because of Portrero Chico.
Multipitch bolted routes make a lot more sense to me than half pitch easily top-ropeable ones.
Just seems like a blast.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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I would hate to fall on that thing... Obviously you probably wouldn't.. If this were on the chief and I could, I would chop it. That being said I've never been there so what do I know?
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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If they added electrical outlets at the belay, you could recharge your iphone even if shade made the solar chargers worthless. Then we could all get more real-time trip reports.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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Climb2ski brings some great points- local ethics.
Chill- I never said I didn't care but thanks for typing words on my screen. You have obviously never been to Potrero either.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Remember it's sport climbing, essentially an outdoor gym, via ferratta like enhancements seem apropos.......now if only Maestri had had an outlet like that he might not have felt the need to deface Cerro Torre.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Cerro Torre, where's that, somewhere in Southern Brazil, no? Who gives a sh#t what goes on there? And why don't they change the name to something easier to spell, like Sara's Tower.
Hell, I'm going for a run...
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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ClimbSki2 writes:
"But this is Portrero Chico.. different Local Ethic."
Were these practices developed by the local Mexicans? Or were these "ethics" imported by gabacho Americans, who practice very different ethics on American crags?
If the latter, can these "ethics" really be described as "local" ?
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Matt's
climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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Magic Ed-- your troll/marketing campaign is pathetic and dickish
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Bringing that back as a souvenir would be my goal for a trip down there.
There simply is no need for it, local ethics aside, I can't see it comparable to anything else. Bolts allow climbs that might otherwise be unclimbable or unsafe, chipping and drilling make a climb easier, even via ferratas allow people to reach otherwise inaccessible places. This doesn't add to safety, doesn't add to accessibility, doesn't simplify the climb.
It's a dumb idea, but I'd happily use it then take it away with me.
TE
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