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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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sneak into disneyland at night and climb the matterhorn,
bolts are there, basketball at the top,
take some shrooms first in case security comes, you can run like crazy to the submarine ride and swim into the tunnel, take a mask and snorkel up the mstterhorn, then swim the sub ride,
dang the fet beat me to it,
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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four days in orange county in march:
yr pretty much f*#ked.
i'd plan to drink really heavily. go to little saigon and eat lots of really good cheap vietnamese food. or to any of the jillion latin hoods and eat really good cheap food. go to the beach and hang out with white people and eat over-priced mediocre food.
there's nothing in orange county than anyone competent would actually seek out to climb on.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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KLK's a hater'
;)
OC has some cool shiz. Crank finger cracks at Green River on the way to Rubidoux. Oh wait, that's inland. Hrm...
Ok, Mt. Blassie is rocking... if you like choss in a heaping mess and it hasn't been plowed by a D9 bulldozer.
Blackstar BOulder!!! Yeah! f*#k ya!! But watch for mongrel dogs.
Hart Park for needle dodging landings on crimps.
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Hart Park for needle dodging landings on crimps.
Don't forget the male prostitutes... I'm so
Glad I don't live next to there anymore.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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ask for special haircut in westminster,
tell em dr sprock sent you,
stay out of the strip joints,
if you do go, wear golf shoes,
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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If nothing else, you can always blend in with the locals, and vote Republican.
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AlpiniPete
Social climber
and a social drinker...
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Feb 22, 2012 - 03:40am PT
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MungeClimber, Could you elaborate on the finger cracks off green river? Are they up the wash towards the little waterfall? I live biking distance from there and would love to check it out.
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Carmel Climber
Mountain climber
Carmel California
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Mar 14, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Royal Robbins has Yosemite, Walter Bonatti had the Alps, Lionel Terray had the Himalaya and I had the Ortega Highway! I started climbing there while I was in Jr. High and climbed every other weekend there up until my 20's. There's lots of places to climb around the highway if you're willing to look. Most people climb the left side of the falls. Ever try the right side? Above the falls is a tall pinnacle like rock. You can free climb to the summit and rappel down the back about 30 feet. Further to the left of the falls on the hillside there are two rocks. On the right you you can free climb to the top and there are some aid routes along the face. On the left rock there is an 5.11 crack on the left and an A3 crack on the right. I learned aid climbing at Ortega and took that knowledge to Yosemite. Placing a rurp on these low rock was really a learning experience when I went onto bigger faces. Down the street above the candy store, there is a tall pinnacle boulder. Fun climbing on the face. Stand on it's summit and you'll feel some accomplishment. Climbing is not always about big stuff. Further down the road there is a picnic area, there is a high boulder with a great jam crack in the center. You can spend a day just playing around at the Ortega. I've have been climbing all around the world from Yosemite, Taquitz, Tetons, the Alps, Africa & Australia. Everything I learned from climbing this little area, I took with me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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Nice Carmel!
AlpiniPete, head for the train tracks back by the Jack in the Box on the north side of the off ramp for Green River Exit (91 fwy before you hit Corona).
Interlocking concrete panels. Clip the bolts for pro, or use nuts or both, DO NOT USE CAMS ON CONCRETE!!!
cheers,
M
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Ortega Falls!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 15, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Turtle Rock?
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Brian More
climber
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
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Mar 15, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Ortega Falls looks really fun, never been... The mission at San Juan is a super cool time machine back a couple of hundred years-few and far between and getting hard to find in these times, Impermanence- ha! Google the Cove or Pirate's Cove for beach bouldering, fun fun! Turtle rock is wacky, the climbing is stiff and sharp (shell fragments?) It's set back in a development and there's a big sign from the Native Americans telling you to move on... respect!
Brian
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Mar 15, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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If you are adventuresome there is good climbing on the ridge aways above the Falls. Take the road that goes to the Bluejay Campground and where it passes the turnoff for the "boys camp" (after the very steep part) park and hike down the ridge to the south. There is a trail. Hike past a very proud boulder on the crest of the ridge. There are several good bolted routes on slabs down there. There is a very good 5.8 4 bolt on impeccable rock and a good 5.10- as well. A few others as well.
They are good but mega-obscure.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 15, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Ortega does have a few good lines and worth a stop if you are in the area. Pirates Cove is probably the best thing going, but if the humidity is high, it can be pretty slimy.
Laguna has obscure and not worth visiting sport routes (3.5 of them) up to 50 feet high (5 Minute Crag). But Laguna has great Mt Biking.
Rainy this weekend. :(
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Well I had a blast on my first visit to the OC. We went to the Mission, walked around Dana Pt Harbor, took a drive to Laguna Beach. The weather was perfect, flowers blooming everywhere. Climbed at Ortega Falls and Pirates Cove. I kinda liked Ortega. Fun to do laps on Gully and Thin Crack. Did some hiking in the hills. Beautiful little county ya'll have there. Can't wait to go back.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Mar 29, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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"Well I had a blast on my first visit to 'the OC.'"
"Don't call it that."
;-)
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