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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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hey there say, donini... fun share...
and say, to david wilson.... wow, thanks for the adventure that went with
donini's 'thundershower' notation, :O
:)
nice share here, all...
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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Kevin wrote: If "nobody" does Kloberdanz to The Edge, I guess Dave Breashears and I are nobody.
Oh well
You are in good company as Roger Briggs and Rob Candelaria were the first to do to do the link and called it "The Naked Danz" 5.11 and the "first" grade five free climb in Colorado.
Good job Kevin...I did the "Edge' in 1978. Great route in a spectacular position.
Speaking of Wunsch's here is a PT prancer (Jim D) on the last pitch.
That was great day Jim.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz, if you have never climbed in Eldo before then harken to the wisdom of Donini.
Climb some pitches first and get the feel of the place.
The Edge has a well deserved "Classic" status and is well worth a trip to do.
A lot of other climbers will also think the same so shoot for a weekday like Goatboy mentioned.
I have liked Rosy to the Edge and T2 to the Edge but
Klobbers is a wicked roof if you want to amp it up right off the ground.
If you do decide to do the Touch & Go start consider the Bolting for Glory variation.
Brassnuts can give you the best beta around.
Perhaps he will chime in here.
But you know if she finds out Crimpergirl will want to stage a ST HH.
So you better book some extra time.
Best of Luck and we will expect a TR.
Edit to add; i see BNuts posted up while I was typing and Crimps was on top of it before I could post back.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Someone call for a HH? That'd be dreamy!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Kevin...the second and third pitch have great face climbing and are WORTH doing. Again great job on the link-up of two really great routes.
Kevin wrote: Donini can face climb!??
The old man can get it done!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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By the way Warbler big kudos for your prideful send back in the day. No small feat indeed.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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This thread is no good without more photos!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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Say it Loud..."I'm a Prancer and proud".
A early ascent of Apple Strudel.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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Before it got polluted with the stench of macho testosterone there really was a magical innocence in the air during those heady days of wild development.
My Eldo partner back then was Michael Gilbert's wunderkind brother Scotty. He, like Dave, was also an absolute purist. Not only was it absolutely chalk and tension free for us but he absolutely refused to clip ANY fixed gear. That made for many a memory on the classics. To this day I believe Scotty was one of the most gifted natural talents I have ever seen let alone been fortunate enough to climb with.
I still miss him every day.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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How come you have to be there in fall now?
When I was there it was June and the sun was shining real nice.
I didn't see any clouds. I was perfect weather.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
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Falcon closure. (Help me with detail folks).
Last year it was lifted early (no birds fledged), but I believe it was originally scheduled for February 1st – July 31st.
And there are really raptors on it, so it's legit. I love seeing them zoom around in Eldo.
Ah, more details from Mountain Project:
"To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes:
• The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only)
• The Diving Board
• Centaur
• Redguard (last three pitches)
• Semi-Wild
• Anthill Direct (last three pitches)
• The Sidetrack "
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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I didn't see any clouds. I was perfect weather.
See the weather.
Be the weather.
Nananananananananaaaaa.
Sorry Werner just a little Chevy Chase spilling out.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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"Neither a cinch or a crack"
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Here's one for you Kevin...
Considering I don't have a bicep on my left arm...not to bad.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 14, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Never climbed in Eldo or the Splat, woo hoo!
That last pitch of Wunsch's looks like it actually has holds, like thin face/knobs instead of what I think of as 12- slab.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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ElcapDude,
Here are my 2 cents worth as someone who has climbed and lived in Eldo for years. I concur with Dave V.'s comments that Sunrise in August and early September is the best(it can be climbed all year,rules permitting). Cool temps,rarely any folks on it(except Dave V.),and no thunderstorms.You should be off by 8:00 am. Take a break then enjoy some of the NO approach climbs in the shade (till about 2:30pm)on the Bastille. Do Wide Country to Outer Space(DNF).
Edge link-ups will of course take longer. My favorite is Super Slab to the Edge or Guenese to the Edge. I have done the Kloberdanz Edge link-up,it is direct and required "reading" for Eldo locals.
You can also do the Edge in 3 pitches for extra "credit" and for "full" value climb it with someone who has never done it either.
A great kick-ass route in an awesome setting. As a side note, "prancing" may not work on the 5th pitch(clearly visible from my house).
Enjoy. Peace and f-nes Steve Sangdahl
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Edge bump... wishing I was up there right now. Go Climb getting after the heinous chimney pitch:
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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If it's in the late summer or fall and you need a partner, give me a shout, Will. I should be healed by then.
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