Canada - if I only had one trip to do a classic up there?

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hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Feb 7, 2012 - 10:44pm PT

Munge
So you asked for some 'moderate' suggestions, eh? I am guessing that you are likely more experienced on rock, than on snow and ice. IMHO your best bet for a great experience is the Bugs. Reasonable access, great rock, lots of moderate rock routes, eh. The NE ridge of Bugaboo has been mentioned. Personally I preferred the original snowpatch route on Snowpatch, 5.8 19 pitches. Terrific.
There's also the East Face [Kor/Cooper] on Pigeon and of course the big bad Beckey-Chouinard, but with harder access and more commitment, eh.

Inner City

Trad climber

East Bay

Feb 7, 2012 - 11:06pm PT

Wow, what a thread! This is so refreshing and wonderful. Life IS good...

only been up to Canada once and rain was near constant for most of the trip, but somehow it was clear on the one day I had scheduled E Ridge of Edith Cavelle, with a Canuck friend.

So exposed and very fun it was! Then the rain came back and we took the night train to Vancouver the next day and caught a glimpse of Mt. Robson from the dining car that evening. That is one awesome looking peak!

It was a special trip but the weather, the horror! Your accounts say it all!

A Supertopo instant classic thread!

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Feb 7, 2012 - 11:31pm PT

How can I convince Canada to let me in? They were hesitant last time.

I wanna climb that Mount Louis, looks like a fun day on a beautiful mountain.

There are millions of unexplored hectares in Labrador and Newfoundland too.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 8, 2012 - 01:03am PT

Don't forget to bring a reliable friend, to ward off the nefarious.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 8, 2012 - 01:11am PT

when did you get a horse, Mighty Hiker?

I should add to this thread but I can't, really...
aside from starting with the same two letters, Canada is very different from California...

we don't really have weather in California
there is weather every other day in Canada, all of my summer vacations there ended in snowstorms, (ah, another similarity if you take Mark Twain's comments about summer in San Francisco...)

even in the Bug's you will have to move on snow and ice, it's an alpine environment, in fact, most of the rest of the Rockies stay frozen together, so ice is not only nice, but required

climbing in the Sierra is really high altitude rock climbing
climbing in the Canadian Rockies requires long approaches, usually on glaciers, to high altitude rubble...
or

here on Mt. Athabasca's summit
and the summit the day after...

But all that being said, it's a great place... you might get lucky and summit.
Peirrot Glacier approach to the E.Ridge of Mt. Joffre (3450m), Aug. 1993

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Feb 8, 2012 - 01:28am PT

Climb the NWF on Devils Thumb in a push, and don't ask stupid questions : )

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Feb 8, 2012 - 02:39am PT

Hey, quit talking about Nelson! There is no such place, repeat, no such place, no such place........
Early cafe, late bar. Minimum one and a half hours to the parking lot, two more to the base. Better to camp at the parking lot. I'm glad that I did it when it was only 5.8 Now it's 10a and getting harder every year. I suspect that the Murcans are stealing the superb holds to use in that place they call the ditch.
It's a great climb, but the Bugs are still a better bet.

Inner City

Trad climber

East Bay

Feb 8, 2012 - 10:20pm PT

Bump, someone must have something else to say on this vibrant topic? Is Mt Logan in Canada? ha

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 10:48pm PT

Gimli looks wicked cool!

aye, rock is my forte. snow and ice is completely do-able if it's not miles and miles of it.

lostinshanghai

Social climber

someplace

Feb 9, 2012 - 01:03pm PT

Vancouver Island has some nice short climbs plus the weather is a little better not as much rain across in Vancouver.

But I would start here first:

This weeks special:

also have free WIFI

BASE104

climber

An Oil Field

Feb 9, 2012 - 01:20pm PT

Do that face on Devil's Thumb. East Face?

The one that has never been climbed, although tried a lot. Many didn't come home....

I have always thought that Devil's Thumb would be a good BASE jump. Not sure if there is a steep exit point, though.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Feb 9, 2012 - 01:22pm PT

lostinshanghai, SERIOUSLY WTF!!!! SOME PEOPLE HAVE WORK DUMBASS!!!!!!

BASE, see my comment above : )

"unclimbed Northwest Face, rising 6,700 ft (2,042 m) from the Witches Tits at its base to the summit, at an average angle of 67 degrees. This is the biggest rock face in North America, more than twice that of the more famous El Capitan in Yosemite. The conditions prevalent also make it perhaps the most dangerous climbing proposition on the continent."

yeah if I had just 1 climb I could do (like if god gave me some super powers for one climb), I would do that

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 9, 2012 - 02:39pm PT

Adamants are another good possibility. Good granite without the Bugs crowds. I choppered in there 8 years ago and had a really fun time. Great camping below the Gothics.

lostinshanghai

Social climber

someplace

Feb 9, 2012 - 02:42pm PT

Vitaliy M.

Seems both have tits and sure do not look like witches to me. Of course guess you like the boys S#ithead.

grover

climber

Dabville. Gnarlandia

Feb 9, 2012 - 03:54pm PT

You go that right Malemute.

'If ya like the holds in the Rockies, take em' home with ya.'

Mtnmun

Trad climber

Top of the Mountain Mun

Feb 9, 2012 - 05:30pm PT

NE Arete of Bugaboo Spire, then traverse and decend the Conrad Kain route. 5.7 super fun. One of the 50 classics too. This will give you, exposure, full alpine conditions and fabulous views.