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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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My beef with leaving stoppers is unless you absolutely need them to get down, I doubt they would last too long before being pillaged. At least a sling and rap ring are just cheap enough to maybe last a little longer, although I think slings are much worse than bolts in terms of trashing the rock. Maybe once I clean out the descent it will turn out to be reasonable to downclimb and I can just plan on a hike to where I can establish a gear anchor and walk off.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I doubt they would last too long before being pillaged.
And how would the pillager get down? Most would probably just rap off your stuff instead of bootying $5 worth of gear of unknown origin, forcing them to then climb some mossy choss with no guarantee that there is another easy way off. Knot up some cord or webbing, Elbsandstein style, if the stoppers are too spendy.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Did someone just get a new bolt kit and is giddy to use it?
Leave the bolting of obscurities alone and perhaps focus on increasing skill level so one can climb more difficult classics.
Call it realizing an opportunity and being able to focus on more than one task at a time. Besides, maybe it would be climbed more often if it had a nicer topout & descent. Is that such a bad thing?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Quit your trolling. I'm not even saying I'm going to bolt it anyways. Merely thinking about making it nicer to climb and seeing what would be generally appropriate for the area. Bolting for easier descending is a very different matter than bolting for pro. No need for you to be a hypersensitive reactionary.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Sounds like you don't know the difference between asking and telling.
You seem to ask many questions, even though it seems as though you climb in the area quite a bit judging by the fact that you are spending time on obscurities. Wouldn't one be able to infer the local bolting ethic after spending a requisite amount of time there?
Based on my inference of the bolting I've seen going on at Reed's and Pat & Jack, I'd say bolt away. But then again I'm not climbing with people who are knowledgeable about the current culture there to give me a sense of things. I also don't consider climbing a lot in an area as a qualification to act like I own the place. Consider it me being more humble in my a*#essments of things to ask more rather than less.
If I were hoping to bolt it and I was certain of my justification, I wouldn't be bringing it up on a public forum to advertise to the world. If you bothered reading the whole thread, you'd also see that my first inclination is to just clean it out and see if it works well enough to belay off a gear anchor and downclimb off without a belay.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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A rap anchor on a crusty, never climbed obscurity? No problem in my mind.
Few would care and fewer go up there to chop.
Hard to believe people would get their panties in a bunch about it.
Plus, being able to TR it and do some laps might make it worth going to the trouble to do.
And somehow leaving even more unsightly stoppers would be better? Don't think so. The valley has a long tradition of piton and nut anchors being replaced with bolts on established climbs.
Peace
Karl
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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There is a tree that looks promising for a rap, but you have to scramble a ways to reach it (making about half the route cl. 4 to 5.4 slab), so it could be nice to let the route end sooner and without tat. My first instinct would be to try to clean up the approach to the tree and see how it is, though.
To reach this climb, head towards the Camp 4 walls. After you've passed the lower wall, the drainage forks a bit, with the main fork continuing up and right towards the upper wall (Henley Quits, Cid's Embrace, Lancelot area). Take the left fork and traverse back left where some tree-covered ledges come down to the talus. About 50' into the traverse, just before a cl. 4 step, you'll see the crack on your right.
The crack is close enough to the upper wall, that it could be a nice short climb to do in combination with those routes. It would be pretty close if you traversed straight over to it from the upper wall, though the bushwacking might make it nicer to descend the talus a bit and regain the 30' of lost elevation.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Few would care and fewer go up there to chop.
Hard to believe people would get their panties in a bunch about it.
Plus, being able to TR it and do some laps might make it worth going to the trouble to do.
+1
PopLockAndDropIt, can we hang out? ;)
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Just put the anchors in and don't spray about it. By the time someone climbs the route who cares they will have been there for 20 years and considered "well established".
Ya really want to bolt something? Pop around the corner and replace the bolts on Christina. That thing is a time bomb... and way sandbagged IMO.
John Long you SANDBAGGER!!! I almost busted my ass!;)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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Ya really want to bolt something? Pop around the corner and replace the bolts on Christina. That thing is a time bomb... and way sandbagged IMO.
I think a number of routes in that area could use some fixing up. The anchors atop Lancelot/Cid's Embrace are pretty bad too. Bad bolts threaded with lots of tat, backed up by a long sling stretched across the chimney over to a flake. It looks like garbage when seen from a distance, and new bolts with rap links would blend in so much better. Also the current anchor is aligned such that ropes get caught when pulling.
I don't mind being a do-gooder and fixing up bad anchors, so long as I make sure I do a proper job! If any experienced bolters want to take me under their wing . . . For now I'm leaving it to fresh slings & rapp rings and taking down old tat, but maybe in the coming year I might get a bolt kit and practice a bit at my local junk heap.
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