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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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He/she (locker that is) is quite funny though. Is he/she on medication/living in a home? etc
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 30, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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In answer to the 2 "historical" questions. As stated above, the "letter ratings" were first introduced "in print" in the Bridwell Ascent article referred to above, though he and his crew had been informally experimenting with them in the Valley for a couple of years before that.In other regions subdivisions of the harder grades were (and still are) often done with "+" and "-" symbols. And for many of the same reasons discussed above the "+"'s in particular, often were (and still are in some places)warnings of potential sandbags--hence the infamous 5.9+s of New Hampshire. The "G","PG","R", and "X" protection rating (or dangerousness rating) system was first introduced in print by Jim Erickson in his Eldorado Canyon (Colorado) Guidebook, also published in the early '70s. It was humorously derived from the then recently introduced US system of rating the "appropriateness" of movies for various age groups.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Jan 30, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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Tami....you always have a way with putting it in great
perspective.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 30, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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Did I have to email Chris to get someone to delete that idiot Lockers posts.
Ooooh someone woke up without their sense of humor this morning! Did you actually e-mail Cmac about Locker?? LOL!! He's a Taco icon, AND owner of Stoned Resoles.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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Ooooh someone woke up without their sense of humor this morning! Did you actually e-mail Cmac about Locker?? LOL!! He's a Taco icon, AND owner of Stoned Resoles.
He's also the newest member of the UKclimbing.com forum.
How cool is that?
g
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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aren't you supposed to be
scheduling meetings, writing letters of reference, uploading docs to various websites, waiting for them to crash, trying different browsers and doc conversions, watching them crash, running email, starting the process all over and so on?
why, yes.
i also need to have a good, clear capsule summary of the history of grading systems for the book. so taking a rough swing in this thread is actually pretty helpful.
i have a ways to go, still.
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apogee
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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"First of all, isn't it the TDS - Tahquitz Decimal System - not the YDS? As it was mostly invented in Tahquitz."
Thank you!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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Bridwell introduced the a,b,c,d system if I remember history correctly.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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You can't define it, but you know it when you see it.
Like porn.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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i also need to have a good, clear capsule
Jeez Kerwin I haven't seen one of those since they threw Owsley in jail. But lemme know if you have any luck.
Have the five chapters on me been galley proofed yet?
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jan 30, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
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I think the biggest difference between the British system and the YDS is that we have dispensed with the E grade, and stuck with a single techinical grade like 5.7, 5.9, 5.10c, etc. For example, as was pointed out above, I bet if the second pitch of Reed's were it Britan it would have a simple tecnical grade, you know, 4c or 5a whatever, but an E grade higher than you would typically see on a 5a. Does that make sense? We just built the "extremity" of the pitch into our thinking: it's either gonna be really sustained, really technical, or both.
No, I don't that's right at all.
(But I could be wrong.)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 30, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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The American Alpine Club has a concise grade comparison chart on their web site.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 30, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Ratings are like ants.
There are so many of them.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
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The Brits are fighting back, I daresay.
How'd that work out for ya'll back in 1775?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 30, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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At Tahquitz, where the rating system was developed, you still have 5.1s and 5.2s that mean something.
If they were climbed today they'd all be 5.6.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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If the YDS were initiated today, 5.0 to 5.4 would probably be one rating, 5.5 to 5.7 another, with 5.8 and 5.9 being distinct.
Since I have not much experience >5.9, is the step between, say 5.10b and 5.10c about the same difference as 5.8 to 5.9? I'm knott talking old school (Sacherer et al) 5.9.
g
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 30, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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At least one Brit seems to be arguing that we are too stupid to figure out our own grading system:
"The Americans themselves havn't a clue how their own system works either in theory or in practice (this has also been obvious from my own conversations with them). There are occasional pathetic attempts to defend it by the distracting tactic of ridiculing the UK system, betraying a woeful ignorance of UK climbing and the UK system.
The sad thing is that the OP made a perfectly reasonable request for an explanation which he won't get for the simple reason that the YDS is broken and needs replacing - I suspect that recalibration and redefining would only add to the confusion".
It would be best if this fellow (Robert Durran) never climb in the States. He might get on something incorrectly graded and god know what would happen then.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 30, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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if the system was invented today it would be the Australian system which is the only one that makes sense...
all rating systems are subjective
to argue otherwise (whether you're a US or UK climber) is foolish... but then again...
the only two grades that make sense,
due to John Gill:
can -- B0
can't - B1
nothing else really matters
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