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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 05:26pm PT
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Oh please, oh please, oh please,
lets not open the can of worms on Cuidado!
Before I have to totally trash that line, I'd like to nominate it as a great route name (as per k-mans thread). One of the best. Actually, we should start calling Pinns "Cuidado National Monument."
Nuff said.
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 05:32pm PT
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Wow, never thought my home area would get so much play!
I like some of you other sprayer's, have climbed a lot of the pinn's routes. I grew up in Salinas, and now am a college student in San Francisco. I've climbed up to .13c (lard butt...in the new guidebook can it have at least a star, it's like a fun boulder problem!), and done stuff as obscure as the Shaft and other high peaks bush wack routes. My little sister and I even have done routes with "eye" protection, such as the Resurection Wall in april, were we used goggles to protect our eyes from the five inch thick lichen on the first pitch. I love the pinn's just as much as anyone...
Most people who climb at the pinn's do so at the monolith, disco, the trap, and the backdoor. And at these locations most parties only do like 6 routes (POD, Cantalope, Reg Route, Wet Kiss, ext). To most pinn's users there are like 10 routes worth while in the whole monument. Even killer classics like Rocket in my Pocket are usually chalk free.
What i'm saying is: Who cares if a new guide is written?
No one, save a handful of us, will climb the obscures, which to most climbers visiting the pinn's is like 95% of the park.
A new guide will not piss off Rubine, he doesn't even climb here anymore.
I'd like to read the history section! The pinn's is indeed a spot of climbing history interest.
Some new, "good routes" are up since the last book, i.e. Karl's .13a on the back of the mono.
Oh, and bridwell bolts? If any of y'all want some hook moves on that shitty of rock do Bongladesh on the west side, hah.
rebolting is cool, placing new bolts to augment pro on existing routes is lame.
peace,
Kevin Friedrich
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Nov 10, 2005 - 05:36pm PT
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Brad wrote
" I'm a human being and a climber."
I call Bullsh*t on this statement. Not true on either account.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 05:43pm PT
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Kevin, I think you've got retrobolting and rebolting confused. Retrobolting is placing new bolts on a pre-existing line. Rebolting is replacing old bolts.
Sweet... the Shaft! I've met so few others who've done that one. Great line, great summit, and some of the worst rock Pinns offers. Clearly was retrobolted, but I couldn't complain because so many of the bolts looked like the pull the rock apart before they stopped a fall.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 10, 2005 - 05:46pm PT
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Hey Billygoat, You don't think I've tried to lead harder than 11c? I do well up to that grade even with bad pro (I've redpointed Crack-a-Go-Go), but I sure start to fade in strength and ability after that level. Still, I have a ton of fun. Also, I'm tired of the controversy over Bridwell Bolts. I'm quite certain that the bolt that's been the subject of controversy is one that I placed, as a replacement in an existing hole. Still, in hindsight I'd bet that it wasn't placed by Bridwell (but who can tell given all the crap that been added to the route over the years?) I'll be there next the first weekend of December (weather allowing). I'm going to remove this REPLACEMENT bolt and carefully patch and camo the hole. This will leave replacement bolts lower on the route (is that OK?) but perhaps restore the original intent. And stop insisting that I retroed the bolt. I've led a fair amount of A4 in the Valley. I've done Premeditated on the Balconies. (Have you? We - Mynameismud and I - did beef up the 40 year old anchor bolts on this too, I hope that's OK.) Why in hell would I add a bolt to a very easy aid route? And thanks for your concern about my career (seriously, thanks for being concerned.) But, don't worry, I love my "job" which is actually self employment. I really feel like I get to help people as a lawyer here in our small community. It's just that this has nothing to do with my avocation (this means you should feel free to call me dude - a word I use perhaps too much myself).
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 05:50pm PT
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mynameismud, billy goat, other pinn's fans,
where do you live? I hope at least in Monterey County! haha
I climbed at the pinn's through JR. hgh and high school becasue I lived in Salinas and the park is all I had.
Now that I go to school in te city I usually climb at places like the valley, that are too big for wanabee localism.
Can everybody stop f*#king fighting about my buddies and I's home, and hopefully yours?
Do I know you guys? say yes or no if you dont want to say your name.
Lets be choss cimbing friends together! Stop worrying about this and enjoy climbing, beers, and girls!!
Pointless localism is for under-educated surfers in Pacific Grove!!
Yay!
Kevin Friedrich
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 05:54pm PT
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billygoat,
yeah, mixed up my word choice with retro...probably cause i'm all wacked out on allergy medicine right now.
I think the rock and bolts on the shaft ar relatively nice compared to some a bunch of the stuff i've done at the pinns!
yay!
Kevin Friedrich
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aldude
climber
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:03pm PT
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All this Dude talk - I had to chime in. West side Rocks! Is that quaint liitle FREE campground still there? When I was a Banana Slug in 1980 it was the obvious winter big wall choice. Freed a route there on the Machete (Son of Dawn Wall?) The first pitch had like 16 Quarter inchers and if I had popped I think I would have zippered the pitch! I'd love to see the new guide come out. That picture on ST thread about potential new books - Machete,West side - was glorious.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
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Brad,
sweet, I'm glad to hear about the bolt removal. I look forward to trying it with the hook move. If you get a chance, could you give a quick look under the roof and see about the possibility of fixed pinns there. That would be the last step in fully restoring the line. I'd be happy to do that half of the work.
Only thing I've climbed on the balconies is lava falls. Frankly, I'm not that stoked on the west side. I'm more into the high peaks and the east side. Kinda feel like the true essence of Pinns climbing is in the small stuff that gives you the big thrill. But perhaps I should do more on the west side, before I truly make up my mind.
Kevin, what's with this territorial bull-sh-i-t. Monterey County? There's a rather large amount of Pinns "locals" from Santa Cruz, yo! And "home," as far as I'm concerned, is where you make it.
On a lighter note, what's the worst rock you've encountered at the Pinns (if you don't remember Shaft as being that bad).
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:07pm PT
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Al, do you remember the route Swanson's Crack? Will you ever go back to finish the second pitch or can we call it abandoned? Also, your description of the route on Machete describes at least a third of the climbs there, but that's the adventure isn't it?
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 06:08pm PT
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Aldude,
no more west side camping :(
Well said about the big wall potential on that side... now you've got me thinking.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
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Brad,
Oh man! If that's part of the adventure, then why did you object when I said rawl wedge anchors w/o hangers would've been a better choice than five piece with hangers? (That's a FOP site reference.)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:13pm PT
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Billygoat, I did check out the pin scars under that little roof at the top. They looked too blown out to me to use (must have been Lost Arrows originally, straight into the main rock, as opposed to upward under the roof. The scars are obvious), so I replaced bolts that were well to their right. The bolts I replaced were ancient. I share your love of the High Peaks - some of my best climbing days ever have been spent there. I think the West Side gets a totally unfair rap though. Try other routes on the Balconies for example, and Old Origianl on the Machete (only 5.4, but one of my 5 favorite climbs in the Monument).
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
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Billygoat,
I already said localism was lame! I was trying to respond to the post someone put up about gilroy/salinas/ ext. in a funny way.
The worst rock i've been on at the pinn's probably was Crackaphobia, or Resurection Regular this spring with the lichen.
Sorry if I pissed of people from Santa Cruz, I didn't mean to.
localism is for undereducated Pacific Grove surfers! And westside SC surfers too, some of those guys are crazy!
Kevin Friedrich
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 06:26pm PT
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Kevin, yep. Gotcha. Just missed the sarcism via electronic inhibitors.
Brad, I've done Old Original and I fully agree. Beware of the descent! It's the crux if wet.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:35pm PT
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what's the worst rock you've encountered at the Pinns
I know this wasn't directed at me, and I'm sure I don't have as much back-country pinns choss experience as a lot of you, but I found the route I did to the top of the Hand several years ago to be pretty manky rock all the way around...
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:46pm PT
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Nice pics!!
I remember when it snowed! That was so sweet!
San Benito! Nice call!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:53pm PT
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Is there really any bad rock at Pinns? Seriously? Actually, Mynameismud, Munge and I and others have a special sub rating for somes Pinns climbs: ATDS. I "invented" it for a particularly terrible crack pitch (it means Absolute Total Dog S...). Try the first pitch of Stilleto on the Balconies, or Rollerball at the Tourist Trap, or the first pitch of Herschel Berschel on Resurrection. All ATDS. Then there are some of Mud's routes on the Ignorable Cliffs, several are really ATDS (try Trailside Tramp Corner). Or try Axe Pinnacle free! What a great place. Adventure never stops, always something new to look forward to.
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 10, 2005 - 06:57pm PT
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Jody,
Holy sh#t, that was ten years before I was born!
Kevin Friedrich
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