Chopped Bolt on Serenity Crack!

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ChrisW

Trad climber

boulder, co

Oct 24, 2005 - 04:03am PT

Put toes in pin scar, CRANK HARD! Feel the pain!

A fall near the bolt with the meager pro not holding the fall would not be death unless you fell on your head of course. You would get injured. Maybe a bruised foot, Maybe a broken heel....broken wrist...or worst? Bring a crash Pad. That will solve the no bolt problem until some good folk replaces it.

1096

Social climber

hell

Oct 24, 2005 - 01:59pm PT

That bolt is at least 30 years old as it is in the Meyers Green Guide and I clipped it 1974. Replace the bolt! and forget what DMT says.

eastsidedirtbag@hotmail.com

climber

Mammoth Lakes,CA

Oct 24, 2005 - 02:18pm PT

I 'm for replacing the bolt-- pretty weak ethical statement to pull 30 year old bolts on mega-trade routes that people love in their existing condition.
Saw a guy deck pulling up rope to clip the bolt once-- slid to the ground and got abrasions but was otherwise OK.
Peace out.

eastsidedirtbag@hotmail.com

climber

Mammoth Lakes,CA

Oct 24, 2005 - 02:18pm PT

Dog

climber

Oct 24, 2005 - 02:34pm PT

I am with Dingus,

Replace the bolt and use an offset as a placement 5 feet below until its replaced.

Meanwhile stomp the living hell outa the SOB that chopped it.

Done this route 650 times and the bolt stays!

Greg Barnes

climber

Oct 24, 2005 - 02:42pm PT

Tough call on this one.

Would opinions be different if the chopped bolt had been a spinner 1/4" with Leeper that no one had ever replaced?

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Oct 24, 2005 - 02:42pm PT

Ya know the climbing isn't hard up to that bolt, but I've backed off that pitch 5' feet below the bolt because I didn't have solid gear( a offset Freind, in backwards). I've fallen that distance before and didn't like the consequences, shattered wrist and broken fibia. Folks will argue all day about a bolt there or( 1/3 of the way down would be smart) but what's the deal with changing established routes?

Holdplease2

Big Wall climber

Yosemite area

Oct 24, 2005 - 03:03pm PT

When you haul your Crash Pad up Serenity crack, I would recommend using a minitraxion rather than a protraxion. With such a lite load, the pully will be plenty big enough.

-Kate.

malabarista

Trad climber

San Francisco, Ca

Oct 24, 2005 - 03:09pm PT

my vote: replace

Skinner

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Oct 24, 2005 - 03:23pm PT

Did this on Sat sans bolt, had to inspect to see where the hole used to be, great job on the camoflauge, saw the bolt the day before. Aliens did the trick (and not falling), um yeah, it was chopped because gear fits right?? So really, all the bolts will be gone eventually once all the climbs get worked enough by traffic be it pitons or whatever, didn't see anything else interesting except a 2 foot turd at the end of the ledge, hmmmm.....

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Oct 24, 2005 - 03:42pm PT

I don't think folks should need special gear (Aliens) to do a classic established route. Not everybody checks the supertop forum to see the detail beta on exactly what gear is required.

I actually think that seeing that bolt up there makes folks climb bolder. You know the bolt is there so you lead it out to the bolt. For folks who haven't already done the route, they'll start up, see that the pro is dicey and fiddle around every 5 feet until they finally get something. It's great to fire to that bolt, clip and then fire 20 more feet with no worries.

Peace

karl

Bryce Breslin

climber

Oakland, California

Oct 24, 2005 - 04:06pm PT

I did this route for the first time on Saturday morning - a very crowded day on Serenity Crack, and no one backed off because the bolt was gone. I think we were all surprised that it wasn't there, but after a few moments of idle comments, everybody moved on and got to climbing. My partner and I were the last party of the day, and I believe that every party above us was also climbing this line for the first time.
I asked for opinions as parties rapped past us (we continued up to Sons): consensus seemed to be disgreement with the removal, especially given the fact that it was done anonymously, and in the dark of night. That's a tail-between-the-legs move, everybody agreed.
The removal itself is well done - I paused on lead to look, and look hard, for the chopped metal. Couldn't find it. My own opinion, for what it's worth: very cool to sink that first cam, without clipping the bolt. If a bolt's put in, I'll probably skip it next time I go, because I've done it sans and it felt good.
Karl: I didn't see anybody fiddling much with gear that day, those first twenty feet of scars are so beat out that nothing is really even tempting; but there certainly were some shaky legs, including my own.

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Oct 24, 2005 - 06:55pm PT

"Tough call on this one.

Would opinions be different if the chopped bolt had been a spinner 1/4" with Leeper that no one had ever replaced?"

If it was a popular route with a bolt that had been manky for many years (and no one thought it was worth the trouble to replace), absolutely it would be different.

If it was a route that rarely got climbed that had a manky bolt and nobody bothered to replace the bolt because it didn't climbed and no one climbed it because... That's different (but thats not Serenity).

Given that the bolt was established and the start, even if it is not "hard", is somewhat intimidating and/or sometimes wet, I would put it in the very lame category to chop. However, I doubt it is worth a bolt war over.

I'm with Karl as to putting in rap bolts to save the tree, but I can't imagine they would last. Maybe after the tree dies/rots and looks scary, a rap anchor there would be acceptable.

cheers

Given that the original ascent involved pins, I guess we could skip replacing the bolt and just hammer a couple of pins in the first 20 feet. Might be a better spot than where the bolt was anyway...

Forest

Trad climber

Tucson, AZ

Oct 24, 2005 - 07:16pm PT

I don't think folks should need special gear (Aliens) to do a classic established route.

Does anybody who's likely to be leading Serenity Crack really consider aliens special gear anymore? Most people I know consider them (or something similarly sized) a standard part of any rack.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Oct 24, 2005 - 08:07pm PT

Speaking of bolts .. .. ..

Who drilled that ugly POS on Midnight Lightning??

Worthless ground scum.

:- k

James

Social climber

My Subconcious

Oct 24, 2005 - 10:29pm PT

Kate-
Classic words of Wisdom.

A green camalot junior will go in prior to where the bolt is. It's a solid placement. One of the YMS guides once "guided" me up the thing and placed a piece there.