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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 21, 2005 - 01:53pm PT
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I think the Azeme Ridge (sp?) on Great Trango.
The longest rock climb in the world and done without any water on the upper 3rd. They probably should have retreated, but suffered through it. Awesome.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Oct 21, 2005 - 02:19pm PT
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I'm not saying it's the proudest, god, there are literally like thousands of those more proud than the palisades traverse, I'm just saying I've been tripping out on how burly it was. Guess I shouldn't have put it in this thread then, huh.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Oct 21, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
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Just did the naked edge in Eldo.Derrick Hershey onsighted it.(If I'm mistaken please advise).Hersheys stuff on the diamond was all onsights & down climbed. It's one thing to be a 5.13+ climber & solo 5.11 , but If you solo onsight a letter grade below your leading level thats crazy & proud.Wolfgang's action direct was 13yrs ahead of it's time. It's almost a full grade harder than originally thought.rg
-Laird Hamilton's Teahopoo Tahiti ride was an excellent send!!!!
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 21, 2005 - 03:52pm PT
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I was pretty blown away when I heard about the Astroman free solo and I can't say anything else has made me react like that since.
An El Cap free solo would really blow my mind though.
Jim
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Oct 21, 2005 - 04:10pm PT
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Henry Barbers solo of the steck salathe ranks up there...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 21, 2005 - 04:12pm PT
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Wildone, thanks for the info. It sounds like quite a climb, and quite a feat. John Fischer was one of my instructors at Palisades School of Mountaineering. A high school buddy and I did North Palisade from the U-Notch back when I was 16 in 1972. Bloody tough, so I'd imagine such a traverse would be fecking awesome.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 21, 2005 - 04:15pm PT
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Were the Astroman free solos that you heard about or the ones that you didn't hear about prouder? Or is Astroman itself what is proud?
dictionary.com
proud:
1. Feeling pleasurable satisfaction over an act, possession, quality, or relationship by which one measures one's stature or self-worth
....
6. Majestic; magnificent: proud alpine peaks.
Is proud defined by the sender or the send?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 21, 2005 - 05:38pm PT
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What about Tony Yaniro's 1979/1980 (?) ascent of Grand Illusion at Sugar Loaf, which was led with nuts and hexes and called .13c, I think. Maybe somebody else has the hard facts. It was way ahead of it's time and many say that with his gear it was the world's first 5.14. It was the hardest route in the world at the time and is still a test piece. It is my understanding that Tony was enrolled in a beginner's rock climbing class for PE credit at Pacific Union College, Napa Valley, at the time of his FA.
Based on the next hardest routes at the time of this route, it would be like somebody putting up a 5.15c today.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 21, 2005 - 05:57pm PT
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>>"Salathe' Wall, Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, 1988. So revolutionary and ahead of its time that many people simply could not believe it."
Jaybro wrote:
>In this context what does "send" mean?
Just the usual - that they freed it (in the style described in their articles).
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:05pm PT
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Kofi wrote: "Rightly or wrongly, he has developed a credibility issue. Most of his claims are generally accepted (and some outright filmed- such as Equinox). A few are questioned (Vampire), a few more hard to believe (Turbo Flange to Edge, perhaps?)."
What did MR do on the Turbo Flange slash Edge? Fact is, that route's only .11b, it's just that the pro is a bit thin, but surely something MR could handle with ease.
Tobin's original lead of the Edge, just casting off, on sight, up that thing with no idea if there was a place to stop and drill a bolt, has to rank up there for proudest small crag send.
It's basically crazy.
JL
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:23pm PT
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Yeah, basically crazy. The only reason we call it 'proud' is because he lived. Doesn't there become a point at which boldness becomes recklessness?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:25pm PT
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KarlP wrote:
> Clint, tell us about Overhaul. Web searching hasn't turned up a good story for me.
It's on a semi-secret crag, so the story isn't widely known. Overhaul is an extension to the route Haul of Justice (5.13b, ~ 30 meters), which was also Tom's FA. So for each attempt, Tom had to crank through Haul of Justice, and try to stay relatively fresh, working each of the knee-bar rests with his body in rather draining horizontal positions. Then keep going up the extension, which finishes with a series of pretty marginal bouldery moves. When Justen Sjong did the second ascent in 2/2004, he rated it 8b (13d/14a). Tom is a weekend climber, so that level of difficulty is pretty far out on the envelope!
Over the years, various injuries forced layoffs from the attempts, but Tom always seemed to stay upbeat though realistic, as he'd get back in shape and kept logging the burns.
Tom wrote a cool email summarizing his history of attempts and what it felt like on the day of the send. But I should check with him before posting it here.
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:28pm PT
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Largo,
How is Tobin's ascent "basically crazy?"
It sounds downright nuts to me.
James
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:36pm PT
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What about Tony Yaniro's 1979/1980 (?) ascent of Grand Illusion at Sugar Loaf, which was led with nuts and hexes and called .13c, I think. ..................... It is my understanding that Tony was enrolled in a beginner's rock climbing class for PE credit at Pacific Union College, Napa Valley, at the time of his FA.
Yes, an ascent well ahead of its time. But Tony was an accomplished and experienced climber at the time and had been climbing for several years at a very high standard. The bit about him being a beginner is pure rubish.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:42pm PT
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some top sends-
Tita Piaz on Torre Piaz, 1907
Comici on the N. Face Civetta and Cima Grande, '31 and '33
French on Fitzroy, 1952
Bonatti Pillar, solo '55
Porter on Asgard, solo
West face of Gasherbrum IV, alpine duo
British route on Nameless, 1976
Norwegians on Great Trango, 1984
Slovenians on Bhagaratti III
Nose free in a day, Lynn
all these sends were way ahead of their time.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:51pm PT
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"The bit about him being a beginner is pure rubish. "
He was enrolled in the course. Doesn't make him a beginner. I took a couple climbing classes in high school but I knew more than my instructors. Of course I was leading 5.5 not 5.13.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 21, 2005 - 06:53pm PT
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The climb you stood at the base of, the one you Knew you could never do, whether it was lead, follow, TR, solo or something else. You laugh it off, become dettached and go climbing. You get to a point beyond your expectations, a point that is success.
It doesn't get better than that. Who else is qualified to define this sh#t, anyway? Beyond that we'll all have opinions.
Who onsight free soloed Freestone, of Hotline, first?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 21, 2005 - 07:14pm PT
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"What about Tony Yaniro's 1979/1980 (?) ascent of Grand Illusion at Sugar Loaf, which was led with nuts and hexes and called .13c"
True, Tony did the FFA of Fracture 2nd pitch. Not true, he did it on nuts and hexes.
I visited the route shortly after his send. There was a cool little sign stuck to a coat hanger at the base reading "This route now goes free!" Fixed pins all the way out the roof.
OK, I wasn't there, but I deduced the pins were there for his ascent. Still, hella proud since 5.12 was considered The Bomb in those days...
:- k
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 21, 2005 - 07:21pm PT
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Proudest Send ...in what category?
Realization is pretty darn proud for standard-setting ascents. It's like comparing apples to brake pads though if you want to consider Messner & Habler's oxygenless ascent of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest).
:- k
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Oct 21, 2005 - 07:49pm PT
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What about Ron's "Magic Line". I am somewhat bewildered as to why none of the current crop of hard men have tried it. I suspect it might be due to the fact that you have to have incredible technique, which you have to get on actual rock, not cranking mono campuses all winter in your woody, then climbing in a cave or the underside of a limestone boulder somewhere.
To me, THAT line is absolutely incredible, and I will always be in awe of it. Unfortunately, I can't find a pic of him sending it on google.
C'mon Sonnie Trotter, Topher, or any of you dudes cranking on trad.
ets see it.
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