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alpinebisou
climber
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Jun 24, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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Saturday, we decided to go for a mileage day at the Gunks. 2000' aka 'Half Dome Day' seemed like a round number. At the start of the Nears is a high concentration of classic moderate routes that can be linked to the top in one rope-length. And, it doesn't get *as* crowded as the Trapps.
Anyway, we got it done without getting snarled in traffic and it was super-fun. Heat, humidity, cicadas and a snake encounter added to the jungle atmosphere. All those climbs are great quality and many would be up there with the best of their grade at the Gunks - Gelsa, Disneyland, Yellow Ridge, Broken Sling, Grand Central. Alphonse has to be one of the easiest 5.8s at the Gunks though. Its not even 5.10.
I got an extra lap in when I had to run up to the top to of the cliff to relay instructions to the partner of a guy who had fallen while following Inverted Layback and was hanging in space with no prusiks. Wish, I'd seen the whipper. He was a fair way down and was probably grovelling around in that thing when he took the sideways dive.
Made this little video: https://vimeo.com/68982570.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
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Mojede, looks like the kids are tearing it up. Jack badly sprained his ankle while playing baseball which we made him play so no climbing for a while. Would love to get him back out there.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 24, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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alpinebisou nice video! a wayback machine indeed... I did many of those climbs in the 1983 to 1985 seasons... hard to believe that was 30 years ago!
thanks for the memories!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jun 28, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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A 5.10c, 5.11c and 12b on Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 28, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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to the top of this to set/clean the anchor for these two
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jun 29, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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peak 9 and storm king peak, upper ten mile creek, weminuche wilderness. my dog for company.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 29, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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solo center crack 6 times. off width twice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 29, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Burgers and Fries. Twice. Twas a beautiful evening at the crag.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jun 29, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
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Laps on Frenches Dome. 10 pitches in total. Ran into old friends at swapped lines. Encouraged a young couple trying to figure out how to handle a baby and climbing. Climbed with the old and climbed with kids younger than my youngest. Stayed cool at this elevation - really worth the drive today. I remember why I like to climb between the views, the movement, the people. It was a fabulous day.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 30, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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soloed west ridge of conness- no other humans all day- gratitude
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Climbed a bunch of cool stuff. pretty big whip on Fire walk.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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yesterday, laps up Poly dome with Dr. Sharpe... he's back...
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Sentinel Spire two days ago
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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El Camino Real on the west end of Tahquitz. July 4
Excellent ,fun route with plenty of thoughtful moves on superb rock.
The P3 lieback is Classic
We could hear band music all day from Idyllwild where there were obviously parade activities and other stuff going on. Being accompanied by distant marching Tuba in the middle of somewhat delicate slab moves was a special experience. LOL
Photos perhaps forthcoming.
Got back to pack and found critters had chewed two holes in my pack to get at my lunch. Apparently you can get a measure of protection from this by storing pack off the ground where fat , overweight ground squirrels can't get to.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/el-camino-real/105799550
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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hot and humid. climbed a sweet 10c and a 5.7 up high. trundeled a large dead tree and two big rocks. cut down two trees and drilled a new anchor. Good day was had by all.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Royal Arches and hike down yesterday. Was hot on the hike down. Lol am outta shape. SOOOOOO good to get to the river!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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I tried talking my partner into climbing in Apple Valley,
but he whined and said it was too HOT.
Cosmic, I have been known to whine when it's too hot OR too cold. It needs to be just right!
I'm stuck in town, but I did get a great climbing workout in at Mission Cliffs with Murcy (thanks to his guest pass). Off to the real thing next weekend!
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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I didn't plan to blend in so well ;-)
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