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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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"If I had to estimate, I've read 99% of the posts on SuperTopo about Wings of Steel (including every post in this thread), and I haven't read or seen anything that was inconsistent with what they told me and showed me first-hand."
Concur. I hear this again and again from a variety of sources. Great post, thank you.
You remind me of my friend Steve DeMaio, who put up a bunch of hard routes in Ontario and out in western Canada. He used to climb with his high school teacher, Jim Fothergill. Even years after high school, I would hear Steve's cheerful voice echoing off Mt. Nemo:
"On belay, sir!"
And his partner would say, "It's OK, Steve - we're not in school any more. You can call me 'Jim'."
Say there Human Pack Mule, you, um, wouldn't happen to be around Yosemite this fall....? (HINT)
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ZachW
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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So uhhhhh, how was the climb?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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In the end, I feel I am a better person for having Mr. Smith and Mr. Jensen in my life. They are my friends and they have taught me a lot -- everything I know about climbing, and about being a better person; holding themselves to the high standards that they held (and hold) for me as I was growing up.
Adam, I've said it before, I will say it again. I deeply admire your writing skill. It's a privilege to read this, as this is also the first time I've heard your thoughts on the climb, and your own experience. Thanks for sharing, my friend. <3
Outside in the cold distance,
a wild cat did growl.
Two Riders were approaching.
The wind began to HOWL.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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yea, did we ever hear anything from Ammon about the route?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
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Lambone, he's working on it. My understanding based on previous posts is that an article is in the works, likely to hit a major publication at some point in the hopefully not too distant future.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Through it all, I got the sense that they were more disappointed with YoSAR and some of the other locals than anything else. Disappointed that people would choose to treat them (complete strangers) that way. The pretentiousness of the locals, the condescending attitudes, the sense of entitlement. The obvious and laughable double standards.
i actually think these are reasonable statements, from ONE perspective...
the perspective that does not inhabit a vast area of untamed granite cliffs that are "self regulated by the local community"...
if there is going to be self regulation, what would one propose as the model? an application at the C4 kiosk to do an FA?
obviously if anyone can cone put up any route on any cliff at any time, that is NO regulation, and i would argue that was not the system that was in place.
like it or not.
and btw, it's mr. mcneely to you, kid. that prefix shows due respect.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:59am PT
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Yosar had absolutely nothing to do with "Wings of Steel"
Absolutely nothing.
Yosar is Yosemite National Park Service Search & Rescue.
Some members of that team had opinions as climbers independent of YOSAR.
What does Yosar have to do with this?
You people are a mixed up mess of speculations throwing ideas around that keep growing in those fertile pea brain heads of yours.
You people really need a life ....
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Meaty
climber
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Jul 26, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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Yep, Yosar had nothing to do with Wings of Steel.
But Dick and Mark have spewed that nonsense for decades, even wrote that tripe in their book.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 26, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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come on werner
as you of all people should know, the ego just seeks conflict to validate itself through separation, it doesn't really matter who, or even why.
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Jul 26, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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FACT: WOS AND YOS PLAIN CRASH ALL IN ONE AS A MOVIE WOULD BE BITHCHEN!!!!!!!!!!
WITH A RAP OFF GROWING UP AND YOSAR IN PURSOOT WAY RADNESS!!!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jul 26, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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Unbelievable, truly unbelievable!! Two of the most significant ascents in North America ( Dunn_-Westbay on the Diamond freed at 5.13 and the Hallucinogen in the Black freed at 5.13+R) have just recently been done and you all can't stop masturbating over Wafts Of Sh#t, Aren't the sperm stains on your twisted panties getting annoyingly crunchy?.
Oh wait I get it those other climbs were in a foreign country called ColoRADo. Never mind carry on.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 26, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Philo, you are but a voice crying in the desert but, carry on, your cause is just.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Jul 26, 2011 - 10:47am PT
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Yosar is Yosemite National Park Service Search & Rescue.
Some members of that team had opinions as climbers independent of YOSAR.
So if I understand you correctly, you're making the important distinction that it was not YOSAR as an entity. Rather it was some climbers who also happened to be members of YOSAR who were acting independently. In other words, that these climbers were members of YOSAR but their actions do not reflect on the group as a whole.
All right, that seems like a valid and reasonable distinction to make, personally.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jul 26, 2011 - 10:51am PT
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Hhhhmm what's that smell?????
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jul 26, 2011 - 11:10am PT
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The hooking may be extreme. Or not.
The route may be microenhanced. Or not.
The FAionistas may be unfairly assassinated in character. Or not.
YoSAR. Or not.
A couple of R-rated 5.13 grade Vs are the raddest climbs of the year. Or not.
Nonetheless, a climbing route is forever tained with the stains of someone else's cafeteria excrement. Is that fugged up? Or not?
What would drive people to do that? I'm just wondering is all.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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A couple of R-rated 5.13 grade Vs are the raddest climbs of the year. Or not. Or not, Indeed, it's only July
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 26, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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Yosar had absolutely nothing to do with "Wings of Steel". Absolutely nothing ... What does Yosar have to do with this?
Werner, I have no reason to think that you had involvement with fomenting the Wings of Steel backlash. While those events of 1982 aren't a story about you, they are a story about YOSAR. The night of the chopping, it was the YOSAR campsite to which the choppers returned to sleep in their tents. The night after the chopping, it was from the YOSAR campfire that we were boisterously heckled and derided with yells including "we chopped your route" and "eat sh#t." Here's a key point: so far as I know, ALL of the players in the intimation of us were members of YOSAR. If a cross section of the climbing community had attacked us, even a cross section that included a large number of YOSAR members, then your assertion (that it wasn't YOSAR) would have some traction. But such isn't the case. It was a well defined subset of YOSAR. Were you at the campfire that night? I trust not, because you would have objected to your team members, noting that at the point they started using the YOSAR campsite as a public announcement point of "We chopped your route," the entire YOSAR team was implicating itself in the event? Right? So, bottom line, it was YOSAR. Certainly it wasn't supported or condoned by the rangers. No one was "on duty." But it the connection to YOSAR is undeniable.
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Meaty
climber
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Jul 26, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Again, Yosar had nothing to do with Wings of Steel.
You can make that claim until your blue in the face but all it amounts to is a very false narrative.
You're so delusional that you've included the entire Yosar team in 1982 as well, quite a stretch from someone crying about getting slandered.
To claim Yosar was involved simply because the three folks that chopped those bolts then sh#t on your ropes were in C4 near or perhaps in the rescue site yelling insults or whatever so therefore Yosar was involved is beyond pathetic. Many that gave you a hard time had nothing to do with Yosar and were never members of the team.
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 26, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Again, Yosar had nothing to do with Wings of Steel. You can make that claim until your blue in the face but all it amounts to is a very false narrative. Who has the false narrative here, Meaty? I'll let what I previously posted stand for itself.
You're so delusional that you've included everyone on the Yosar team in 1982 as well, quite a stretch you moron. Reread my post. I said a "well defined subset."
Many that gave you a hard time had nothing to do with Yosar and were never members of the team. You seem to have been there. Name one.
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