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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 13, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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Have fun Bob, see you on the 4th or later if you aren't there yet.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 13, 2006 - 06:26pm PT
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Van Belle,
I think you're right. Why don't we start our own club?
We can call it BUBS (Big, Ugly, Bobs). Requirements are
obvious. I think we can recrute Harrington and Gaines.
What do ya say? It can be slab climbing and reach oriented.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 13, 2006 - 06:40pm PT
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Jan,
For your entertainment. The short bus just let out
at the portal.
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mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 13, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
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Jan -
mooch = Dave....ding ,ding, ding, get that man a Stonemaster certificate!
You headed up to Courtright this weekend? Power Dome slab awaits!!
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 13, 2006 - 07:01pm PT
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Man, what a bunch or grey haired old dudes! It's amazing any of them can still climb. Well, except the worlds strongest mutant will never get weak.
Speaking of mutants, it's too bad Waugh wasn't a girl. We could have bred him with Kauk to get a super mutant. Although it sounds like Kauk's offspring is already wicked strong.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 13, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Who says any of 'em can still climb?
These guys are just trying to figure out
how to get back to the cabin. The prune
juice just kicked in.
By the way...Who says Waugh isn't a girl?
Hmmmmmm?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:47pm PT
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This thread rules. Anders gets a gold star. Even though it should probably be broken into a part 2 and a new one started cause this one is starting to take awhile to open when you click it.
Apocalypse, yeah I've always considered Loose Lady more of a face climb cause there's enough edging and crimping on it. Something like Chalk Up Another One or Papa Woolsey would be slab as opposed to LL, at least in my mind. If smearing and balance is your main way up the route, it's slab.
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bones
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 13, 2006 - 09:03pm PT
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Some awesome pictures here.
I tend to climb alot of slab, both friction and edging, since it's so abundant here in SoCal. From Idyllwild to Jtree to Yosemite, I've pumped out my calves and cramped my feet more times than I can count. I don't know how you first ascensionist bolt these things on lead when I can barely even stop long enough to make the clips, and I top out at only 5.11! Anything above that looks impossible! Maybe I need to get myself a pair of EBs. Anyways, props to you hard slab climbers.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 13, 2006 - 09:03pm PT
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Flouride, that's pretty funny. I always considered Loose Lady a slab climb except maybe the crux move at the bottom where as I need to crimp like a mad dog on Papa Woolsey and Chalk up Another One. Just so you know, Dave Houser and I put up both Chalk up Another One and Loose Lady so I have plenty of experience on both routes. And I think Papa Woolsey is the site of my longest leader fall ever. I was standing about 3 feet above the big knob without having clipped that next bolt yet and fell to the first bolt. All air btw, so that route may be steeper than you think. Although I did try to land on the big knob and basically did a back dive off of it. Good thing I know enough to cover my head with my arms or you guys would have one more statistic to bag on us non-helmut wearers about the dangers to our noggins.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 13, 2006 - 09:47pm PT
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oldschool is getting revved about "slab talk".
slab:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 13, 2006 - 10:22pm PT
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THREE WORDS
!!!!!!TEN KARAT GOLD!!!!!
Scared me and my buddy Chris, abosolutely silly.
Now it doesn't seem horrific in hindsight behind this here glass monitor thingy *dink dink dink*
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 13, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
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No debate, no semantics...slab climbing is very different from face climbing.
With slab perhaps you pinch a crystal. But most of the time you are palming.
With slab, "it" is completely about balance.
Frankly, I am surprised "this" is even a debated topic.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jul 13, 2006 - 10:50pm PT
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Shortimer - MAD props to you (and Dave Houser)!! Chalk Up Another One is one of my favorite climbs in JT! Great eye on that line. Loose Lady is another great line. But for some reason I always find that crimpier/edgier, always thought of it as more facey than slab but if the FA'ist thinks it's slab I gotta take that into consideration. Done that thing probably a dozen times and it never gets old. Thanks for putting up those lines for folks like me to enjoy!
Papa Woolsey has always given me more problems than CUAO for some reason. It's steeper and always seems greasier. But still a great climb nonetheless.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 14, 2006 - 01:54am PT
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I recall that in 1977 the late Eric Weinstein of "Sentry Box" fame once observed that slab climbing is actually the hardest genre of climbing. I asked why is that? He replied that people are much more likely to take falls on a slab pitch. I think I understand now what he meant: I've seen a guy take 14 falls to get "Anchors Away" (5.11a) on GPA and only fall once on the "Butterballs" (5.11c) crack on the Cookie Cliff. I guess likelihood of falling off has to be factored into level of difficulty. And it sure is easy to fall off a slab.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 14, 2006 - 11:49am PT
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i was doing anchors away with the wife all back in the day and shite. took a worse-case-scenario fall, maybe 30 - 35 feet? -- pitched from pretty far out -- and somehow wound up on my side, sliding down on my right hip, looking down, while stabilizing with my outstretched palms. pretty fun fall. wore a hole right though my blue jeans and my socks and my right shoe, where the ankle protrudes. great route. i'd hiked it before in e.b.'s, but on this day was wearing 5.10 "verticals" with the first generation of 5.10 rubber on them. i was so dismayed i called cole in l.a. and asked "wtf, dude??" he laughed out loud at my tale of woe and patiently explained the "interlocking" principle that made 5.10 rubber so sticky on most types of rock. on pure glass, like you'll sometimes find on the apron, where there is absolutely no texture to the rock and so nothing for the rubber to "interlock" with, you're actually better off with e.b.'s...
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 14, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
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Bvb, if you ever go climbing at Dome Rock leave your 5.10s at home cause they don't work there either. However, a nice pair of Sportiva's like the Focus or Mega work great. Now I know why.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 14, 2006 - 02:23pm PT
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fattrad, if they hurt your forefoot too much, cut the gray leather off the bottom part of the shoe. I do this to all my pairs, but then I have a square sort of fat foot so I need all the expansion room I can get. They are the best shoes for hard edging, but you won't ever own another pair cause Sportiva quit making them.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 14, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
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That's interesting because it matches my experience with the new softer soles: On pure glass friction slabs, the softer rubber seems to "ball up" after a couple of smears and then you fall off - like on Yanero's "Pipe Stem"(?) on Dome Rock. However, older, harder type soles gave you more purchase on glass than the modern stuff, especially when you have to do a bunch of friction moves in a row. The softer modern rubber seems to ball up under foot after a few smears. I think when it's really cold out they don't do that however.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 04:43pm PT
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My Acopas are did good out there. You should try them out.
Hey Jan, I'm missing you!
I can never really follow you, but trying is fun. I'll call when my location is corrected.
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emcee
climber
slc
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Jul 17, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
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some more shots of lcc slabbing:
0face
unnamed
one more of the above
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