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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Do dangerous approaches need fixin too? What if you're to sac less to even get to the start of the route?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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John Kelly wrote: What if you're to sac less to even get to the start of the route?
No...but you are mental for posting climbing shots on a climbing forum. :-)
Cool shot, sea of white and crevasses.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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Hahaha
Is it Anders?!?!
Or is it Coz?!?!
Who will be right, on supertopo detective retrobolting mania? Bob? Or hedge? Who will be more affected when they find out they are wrong? Could it be possible that both Coz & Anders are sharing the seer avatar in order to confuse & distract bob & hedge.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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I don't think it is Anders anymore.
Sorry Anders.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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SeeR wrote: And you'll be Mighty embarassed when I expose myself....
And you make fun of me in lycra. Keep it in your pants...that is not visual I want to seeR.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Sep 30, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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johnkelley, keep posting photos... best part of this thread.
seer is not Coz, PB, Anders, nor LEB.... someone who has not posted here before, imo.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 30, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Man, there are some trippy dudes on this thread.
Hedge, just for clarification, I never said the Lemmon was world class, but that there was a time when it was "considered" world class. Surely you remember those days.
Maybe you don't.
Whatevz.
Have fun wit cho bad selves.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
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We've gone over this 20 times. No one wants to retro the BY. It gets done; it is relevant.
What is being addressed are the hundreds of museum climbs that NEVER see a repeat.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
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We've gone over this 20 times. No one wants to retro the BY. It gets done; it is relevant.
Then this thread is not relevant.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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No one on here has asked for it to be retro; well, Largo did. But more to call our bluff than anything, I'd wager.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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Randsi wrote: Lots of people would like to see it retro-bolted.
Seeing and doing are two different things. Bachar used aid on the climb (hooks) is that your shining example of a trad climb?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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"Was there any better way to do it besides soloing it?"
From stances if you want to get picky. I think it is a great climb and achivement, Pete Cleveland was doing hard R/X routes in South Dakota in the 60's, the problem with them is more than likely you are going to die, hitting the ground is not so forgiving as hitting air.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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No it is worship the BY thread or someone is going to rebolt the BY but they haven't.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Just flying in ......
to check latest slander, chest pounding, and general wankerism.
More photos needed.
Where's that sacless wanker seeR?
He's late for work in this thread.
Wake UP dude .......
:-)
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Nice shot Mt10910..that is a very big hill. :-)
At the other end of the spectrum...a very small hill.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 30, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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I didn't want to pollute the excellent trip report on the B-Y with this controversy, so I'll comment here instead. I think that TR very eloquently describes the difference between climbing a sport-bolted route and a run out one. It also quite nicely refutes a lot of the argument about "FA parties putting up run out routes below their ability." There remains a huge difference in difficulty between routes with tenuous holds and route-finding problems, and one where the line is marked by bolts every body length. Pretending that the risk of a long fall has no effect on route difficulty remains just that: pretending.
Retro-bolting can change a route. We need to keep that in mind when we decide to add bolts to existing routes.
John
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 30, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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this is the " I own the rock"
"do not alter my route"
"do not add more bolts unless the FA party agrees thread."
There. ...fixed that for you.
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