Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
|
That's cool by us!
Lemmon climbing isn't for everyone.
Luckily there is still a lifetime of new and used routes up there to discover.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
|
Rmuir...A lot of people have respect for the classic...that is why you don't see them getting retrobolted. Having respect for 5.13 putting two bolts in a 140 foot 5.8 slab routes just so he pound his chest...not so much respect.
He/she just isn't pushing the limits.
"Glen Dawson recalls, "The climb was right at the limit of what I wanted to do, difficulty-wise. I think we may not have done it free if we had a good spot to put in a piton--the free climbing was partly the result of necessity."
This is really important and should be held in very high respect.
Drljefe...you bastard! :-)
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
|
Having respect for 5.13 putting two bolts in a 140 foot 5.8 slab routes just so he pound his chest...
And you're absolutely certain that's the motive, weak sauce?
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
|
Rmuir wrote: And you're absolutely certain that's the motive, weak sauce?
No it could be they think are really cool. I don't know but it seem pretty weak sauce for someone of that ability to do that and then claim the route off limits for more reasonable protection.
Just an opinion...just like your post.
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
|
Although the fourth ascent party added a new "chicken bolt" to protect the run-out face climbing,
Actually the chicken bolt would have protected a single crux move left (about a 5.6 move, but it sure doesn't feel that way with 60+ feet of rope hanging limply off your ass) at the top of the runout to the crack where you can finally place pro.
The case is still there, about eye level when you make the move.
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
|
"How many valley walls?"
What does that matter?
|
|
Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
|
You must be kidding. Tube Sock Tanline 4 Lyfe. Maybe 8th or 9th ascent? Oh, I am not worthy.
sounds like you are worthy of the AA thread about now...otherwise you are simply adding to your motherfcking american legend status in a bad way.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
|
SeeR wrote: You're right Bob,
Smartest thing you have said since posting under your lame ass fake name. Your gimp ass hasn't done anything in 30 years but you still feel the need to be like the big boys and in some sick little way you need to respond when someone write something about your Anonymous ass...talk about pathetic.
You are really hurting my feeling because you don't like my photos. You have stooped to Ron Anderson level, two peas in a pod. Funny sh#t.
Mt10910 wrote: the climb with out a doubt for all levels, because all hard aid climbing is
about risk. yet almost every wall in the
valley has unneccesary bolts at belays,
yet no one complains, no one chops
and these routes are done all the time.
and the fact remains no one forces you
to clip the added bolts.
He reel your asses in and now makes you look like fools. Your freaking egos are attached to some climb you did/repeated 40 years ago...for christ sake is you life that f*#ked up.
Schooled by the mountain man...
Seer something the SeeR climbed in his teenswrote:
More than likely the last hard climb you did.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
|
Warbler wrote: f you're saying adding bolts to aid climbs is the only climbing situation where that added bolt lowers the risk, methinks you're a slab noob.
No he not..what he is saying is that no care or chopped those bolts. Two of the proudest stones in the Valley...Half Dome and El Cap sport hundreds if not more retrobolts...no one has chopped them, no one give a sh#t.
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
|
I know a guy that chops on valley big walls. This problem is not limited to YNP. Like I said before it's happening here too. It's not limited to rock routes either. Lot's of mixed routes and ice routes have dumbed down by having bolts added too them. Don't know if it still is but at one time, late 90's, Bird Brains had fixed gear top to bottom.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
|
John Kelley wrote: I know a guy that chops on valley big walls.
Must be a busy man.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
|
Ron wrote: tell that to Mark Hudon..
Climb with Mark when he was here in Boulder, talked about some of his old routes being retrobolted, he didn't seem angry at all.
We did six sport routes that day..fun was had by all.
He climbed with Donini in the Black...well rounded and enjoying all of it.
SeeR wrote: Greasy but Groovy, something the SeeR climbed in his teens, along with many others on a regular basis BITD.
Sprayfest.
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
|
No, but your attitude, and maturity level, certainly does nothing to refute it.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hahahahaha, f*#k you clowns and your mindless, adolescent, chest-thumping gibberish BUUUWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAhahahh... Hahahahaha, idiot. Hahahaha. Couldn't care less, obviously. Maybe just shut your mouth instead.
"You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:03am PT
|
Yeah right Mt there's no skill involved in hard aid. Hahaha seriously?
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:08am PT
|
John Kelley wrote: Yeah right Mt there's no skill involved in hard aid. Hahaha seriously?
Just the opposite.
Hundreds of bolts have been place on big walls after the FA, did they lower the skills level to do those walls?
A big fat bolt in the middle of what used to A4 hooking...is it still A4.
SeeR wrote: Oh yea and the photo's, Bob...I've never seen a bigger spray fest of photo, of your faggy pants montage, starring yourself... only Hanna Montana has anything on you..
Oh..but Kelley and Mt 10910 photo spray fest is ok?
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:12am PT
|
Bob I get what you are saying but yeah if you have a big fat bolt to clip the pitch is far easier mentally.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:14am PT
|
John, I agree...if you are at your limit.
If you are a a4/a5 climber...skipping a couple of placements on A1 is not going to stress you out. Same with a 13 climber on a 5.8 slab.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:14am PT
|
Some folk assume if they did the first reported ascent of a rock climb they "own"
the line they climbed.
... then they can pay for all the broken ankles, and deaths that happen on them.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:17am PT
|
SeeR...post, like 400 photo's of themselves.
Really, 400..what a retard. You are by far one of the weakest anonymous coward that has ever attacked me on the internet...get some skills.
SeeR wrote: Slab climbers are straight up light, and sac-less.
Well you might want to talk to Kelley about that as a number of his climbs look way less than vertical.
Falling 40/50 feet on his routes or a run out slab would kind of ruin your day.
|
|
Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:31am PT
|
SeeR/Anders wrote: Gentlemen, slab climbing in the old days, was called homo climbing.
And Glacier Point Apron, GPA, was know as Gay Pride Area.
Dude has issues...big ones.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!