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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 29, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Pretty hyped BVB showed up here. Seems to have some sort of kryptonite effect on hedges drivel. Very nice.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 02:28am PT
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Scary day. Bowling alley. Alaska is so cold it's welded. Rockfall? Please. Only falling hazard is your fingers and toes. Sub 20,000, air so thick you can cut it with a knife. Krakaur is a gnarly, gnarly, guy and Everest just about killed him. In 40 years of climbing (this month!) I have never, ever, ever been as scared as I have been on California runout slab. At 23 years old GBG gave me grey hairs. Accomazzo and Tobin crushed the hardest unclimbed Ice Climb in the Alps (hey, wtf, let's do this FOR FUN nothin' else going on, it was that casual!) about the same time they did GBG, which they regarded as ""serious." Do the math, These guys do Motherf*#king bitches don't know. There is a reason Bridwell crushed Cerro Torre on the first actual ascent with a pickup partner from NZ...he'd been training on Cali Slab. F*#king Assholes, bring it. Pussies. Grow a pair. Dru Couloir Direct. Every wanna be and future Himalayan badass had backed off of it. Tobin and Rick just walked up and hiked it r fun. FOR FUN. Why? 'cause whey'd been feed on a a staeady diet of Cali slab. Tobin bought it on the North Face Of Alberta. But for a twist of fare he would have crushed.
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Loomis
climber
Svět
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Sep 29, 2013 - 02:47am PT
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This thread is still going? Oh well, stimulus and response. Go put up some new routes.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 29, 2013 - 03:36am PT
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Or go repeat some old routes. LOL Farewell to Kings comes to mind. Old and scary.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2013 - 04:32am PT
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"John, don't get me wrong, I respect you -- you've done sh#t I would not touch with a ten foot pole -- but this is a lower 48 bitchfest that sort of exists in a context that is so far removed from Alaska...I cannot even articulate it. Maybe David Roberts, but not me. My best friend, I was the best man at his wedding -- was this close to doing the Harvard Route when he got clocked by some off route punters and through some incredibly random serendipity got choppered out. I simply cannot abide by Joe, who is bagging on California testpeices. Alaska is an Ultimate, as Scott and Becky will attest. This is a lower 48 thing. We got this ass named Joe Hedge; you guys would have put him in a shallow grave eons ago. Just sayin'."
I hear you bvb. It's one of the reasons I moved up here. After climbing for a decade in Colorado I grew tired of the BS. Hung out in the Tetons for several years but Jackson was so small it was hard to get partners. Anyway the Tetons were great but they got me more interested in mountain/alpine routes. Alaska is the alpine meca of our continent so I wound up here.
However the same sh#t is going on here. There's not much rock that you can access by road unless you're willing to walk for days. In the last five years or so many (most?) of the old classic road accessible routes have been rapped by the power drill. Same problem different place.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Sep 29, 2013 - 10:04am PT
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I go climbing for a full day, come back, and this has turned into an old man bar brawl.
Mellow out on the Androgell kids.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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SeeR wrote: EDIT, funny thing about being an anonymous pussy, is seeing just how big an ego and how little it takes to crack that little shell of insecurity, Dude, it was sarcasm...Freaking San Diego... Looking forward to the retorts aye, maybe forty photo's of how bad ass you are in tights.......
What a joke you are. BVB nailed you and you know it. You are twice as f*#k up as the people you try to make fun of with you sarcasm. The Mighty Hiker is really not so mighty.
Yes...40 shots of snow slogging is so much better.
Kelley wrote: There's not much rock that you can access by road unless you're willing to walk for days. In the last five years or so many (most?) of the old classic road accessible routes have been rapped by the power drill. Same problem different place.
Not happening here in Colorado or the Gunks...must be a Cali or Alaska thing. I really can't think of a classic route in these areas that has retrobolted.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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The Mighty Hiker is really not so mighty.
If the seer was Anders that would be amazing but I highly doubt it, he's at facelift- probably retrocairning the trail to manure pile & I doubt he's bored enough to be antagonizing u guys here. The type of focus the seer has channelled can only be discovered thru true boredom, genuine annoyance for the topic at hand & being surrounded by coastal rainforest in monsoon season.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Do tell...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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haha i wish i had more to tell Steve. Only speculation from another bored Canadian watching it rain buckets outside, dreading the fact that the dog will not stand for another day without a run.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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I was actually asking about the Gunks route that got retrobolted but it went away. LOL
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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Steve...If you got the goods you should speak up...I was being honest. I can't think of one.
I got out today for six quick pitches, I feel calmer. How anyone can live in the northwest and not go crazy in beyond me.
Speaking of Alan...nice guy, great face climber and bold, also bolted his fair share of routes after seeing the light. :-)
John Kelly will be sixty one day, he will also see the light. :-)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 29, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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How anyone can live in the northwest and not go crazy in beyond me. ... mmuuugggaahhhaahhhaahh!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 29, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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Bob- Rich Ross posted somebody's botchjob momentarily and that is what I was commenting on.
Lots of drilling going on down in my home town. Tucson used to be an area known for bold and committing climbing and these days it is known for grid bolting and bolts placed next to perfectly good cracks.
I hear stories of visiting climbers getting disgusted and taking it upon them selves to chop unnecessary bolts and I have to wonder what is up with these folks?
The answer is license. Don't like what you are facing when you get turned around then come back and help yourself to a bolt next time.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 29, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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¿Donde?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Steve..are they new or established route??
I really loved the climbing in Tucson, used to visit Bob Murray when he lived there.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 29, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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People visit that locals crag from afar? I barely visited it as a AZ local, it never grabbed my whammy jammy. Although, The Orifice looks awesome.
Mt Lemmon used to be considered world class and on the circuit between Hueco and Josh.
Now it's all but deserted except for the newer sport crags.
I have been establishing bold routes and sport routes but never bolting next to a crack.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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All I want to know has anyone repeated Bashie Crack...my claim to fame in the Tucson area. LOL
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 29, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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I bolted it. Now it's a classic!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 29, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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The tradition is about forty years old.
Wow. What backwater to you come from?
Salathe and Nelson used aid and bolts on the 1947 ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire in 5 days. And no one even cares about the gutless wonders who lassoed the summit and prusiked... (Those bolts--and no more--were still in place when I did it in 1968.) Gosh, I wonder why nobody added more bolts to make it more accessible? Steck, Salathe, and Mark Powell were doing some pretty bold routes by the mid-fifties.
Dick Jones and Glen Dawson did a bold face route on Tahquitz called The Mechanic's Route back in 1937. Although the fourth ascent party added a new "chicken bolt" to protect the run-out face climbing, it was quickly removed. Back then, dumbsh#t, the law was well-understood.
Glen Dawson recalls, "The climb was right at the limit of what I wanted to do, difficulty-wise. I think we may not have done it free if we had a good spot to put in a piton--the free climbing was partly the result of necessity."
Note the subtle use of "partly". Wilts, Robbins, Gallwas, Wilson, Hoover all pushed the limits and, you betcha, they all believed in the primacy of style, boldness, and respect for the law of the FA.
As I was saying, seventy years. And let's not even begin with the history of climbing on the East Coast, England, or Wales... Those guys had respect. Some of us have respect. Where's yours?
We now return you to the regularly-scheduled wank fest. Have at it, children.
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