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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Ruppell...this is Richie Romano on Kligfield's Follies in 2007, I led the route first and the scary part was using Richie rack. :-) I first led it in 1979 and took a huge whipper out the upper arch..Funny how much better cams made the route.
A lot of the old R-rating were pre cams, RP's and aliens...you might want to go back without them and with EB's and wear a 2in swami with no legs loops for full value.
[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/_DSC4890.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/_DSC4890.jpg[/img][/url]
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Wharton later told an American Alpine Club slide-show audience, “It was like doing Stoner’s Highway”—a sustained Yosemite 5.10— “where you make some moves and clip, and say, whew, and make some more, and clip, and say, whew. Except you don’t get to clip.”
Link to the full article:
The REAL alpine
You maybe asking yourselves why? No Bolts. No BS. That's why. Some people climb hard wherever they climb.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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Rsin..I have no idea what you are talking...clue me in.
Ruppell..I wouldn't go there...Josh has placed and clipped his share of bolts.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Bob
I don't intend make this thread even more convoluted then it is. Maybe one day I'll look back on my antique tech and think how the youngsters have it so easy. Facts are facts though. Fact number 1. It's still the same rock climb. Fact number 2. It's still the same rock climb. Fact # 3. It's done less now then when hobbnail boots where in fashion. Which leads one to believe the "gear hypothosys" is total BS. Some routes have a stygmata attached to them. Some people do these some don't.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Rsin..all i could managed back in the day was the weenie way
but everyone talked about the crux of bullet clipping that bolt
theres that pick of kevin sketching while trying
sorry
just askin
It's OK...I just didn't understand. I made the lunge then clipped the second bolt...most people now just stick clip the first two bolts. The first bolt is a little high.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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Ruppell..Yellow Wall had a fair amount of ascents in the 70's and early 80's in fact there is a picture of me leading it in Dumais Gunks book.
My last trip to the Gunks was in 2008 and I was surprise at how many people TR everything...I'm telling you from experience of doing them both ways that the gear doesn't make the moves any easier just a little more safe.
Rsin..on Big Rock...look like a killer route. I think it clocks in at 12c. Hit by lighting
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shock-treatment/106107154
Maybe Kelley can drag me up it.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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People flock to the Gunks for one reason. Easy grades. Tick Graveyard Shift after work(tree work) for an on-sight. No lines no way I'm gonna fail. That one is actually 'r".
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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People flock to the Gunks for one reason. Easy grades. Tick Graveyard Shift after work(tree work) for an on-sight. No lines no way I'm gonna fail. That one is actually 'r".
Yea, it's the easy grades the Gunks are known for...
... like not! We went to the Valley for gentle grades...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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BVD the Cassin is a trade route, has been for quite awhile.
Exactly. Thanks for making my point for me. "Seer" you anonymous pussy, I hung with Al Rouse and Lilanne Barrand and Diemburger BITD so don't even go there. My next door neighbor is a Pole who was in Basecamp when they sent and he is dying of cancer so don't even go there. I know what it is. Alpine, particularly Himalayan Alpine, is core. So is runout face on California granite. And anyone who wades into this discussion anonymously is a coward. Hard, runout face is every bit a litmus test as is the South Face of K2. You pathetic tool. And Joe, shut your f*#king face and go add bolts to whatever, we'll go from there. F*#king waste of bandwidth. F*#king bullsh#t.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Yea, it's the easy grades the Gunks are known for...
... like not! We went to the Valley for gentle grades...
LOL. Todd thanks. Gully hiking is still gully hiking. In the gunks it's just short and to the point. Unlike this thread.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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"People flock to the Gunks for one reason. Easy grades."
What they flock there for is the steepest, best 5.4 to 5.9 in the country.
Horseman being one example, Jackie, Laurel and a host of others.
BVB is going bouldering.com on someone ass. I agree with fake names..especially went you are throwing darts at someone back.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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No offense John, but this is less than vertical and comfortably warm -- no spindrift -- and clearly less than 20,000 feet. Take it to your club, bitch. The Brits won't be inviting you today on the basis of your last few seasons, journeyman.
Lotsa talk for Alaskan Trade Routes. Welcome to anonymous. F*#king bitchmade pussies, post up God you are f*#king pathetic.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Possibly the longest "rock climb" in the world is'The Great wall of china"nnm
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Sep 28, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/photos/17/28/294317_24159_L.jpg
No offense John, but this is less than vertical and comfortably warm -- no spindrift -- and clearly less than 20,000 feet. Take it to your club, bitch. The Brits won't be inviting you today on the basis of your last few seasons, journeyman.
I'm not knocking the Casin. It's a great route that get done several times a season.
Spindrift bitches!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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anyone else lead the naked edge in the 80's??? You must be kidding. Tube Sock Tanline 4 Lyfe. Maybe 8th or 9th ascent? Oh, I am not worthy.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I did the edge in 1978...clip up. First pitch had maybe 4-5 pins.
Time for the SeeR to man or woman up...
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Hell no...that was Charlie Fowler off the diving board...Most wild thing I ever saw in Eldo was Rob Canderlia take about a 70-80 footer off the Wisdom...I was doing Gunesse and heard this wild ass scream.... I turned my head I thought he fell soloing something, mother fuker almost hit the ground from the crux...I think Pat Adams, his belayer wasn't paying attention. :-) I think that was 1976
As to alpine...climbing 5.12 in Eldo is a cakewalk compared to the Diamond or the other high peaks.
I was an on the diamond for a few storms, no fun. Alpine is tough, I like the sun.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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John, don't get me wrong, I respect you -- you've done sh#t I would not touch with a ten foot pole -- but this is a lower 48 bitchfest that sort of exists in a context that is so far removed from Alaska...I cannot even articulate it. Maybe David Roberts, but not me. My best friend, I was the best man at his wedding -- was this close to doing the Harvard Route when he got clocked by some off route punters and through some incredibly random serendipity got choppered out. I simply cannot abide by Joe, who is bagging on California testpeices. Alaska is an Ultimate, as Scott and Becky will attest. This is a lower 48 thing. We got this ass named Joe Hedge; you guys would have put him in a shallow grave eons ago. Just sayin'.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:41am PT
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Um, this has become your thread Joe. Where are you taking us?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 29, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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I'm just an average, run of the mill former climber speaking his mind, BVB Well. I'm disappointed to hear that you're a former climber. I still get after it, sometimes more so than other days. All I know is that I've lost too many freinds to climbing, and old age, and god knows how many ailments. I was in the motherf*#king boy scouts with Alan Nelson and taught him to climb and nobody gives a f*#k about him. Then you f*#king pop up with mt 1010110101 spouting sh#t about routes that are masterpeices, stuff kevin worral and largo and bachar poured their f*#king heart and souls into. You should either follow up in real life on your vaporous nonsense, or just shut the f*#k up. And if Al was here he would not say a word. He'd just just wait in the wings with his crowbar. As am I.
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