Silent Partner failure

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healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 30, 2015 - 09:22pm PT

I haven't. I used both unmodded and modded grigris from when they first hit the market on through until the Edelrid Eddy came out and never had any serious issues with them. It was still kind of annoying, mainly because the rope runs through it the opposite of what you want for lead rope soloing.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Dec 30, 2015 - 09:25pm PT

Yes a few bad accidents..Scott Deputy of YOSAR doing the nose in a day solo. He got beat up a bit from a very long fall ..like 100 foot when the modded gri-gri didnt lock. Some others I vaguely recal.

climber

away from the ground

Dec 30, 2015 - 09:43pm PT

Anybody know of injury/death from silent partner failure? I wonder which has more field hours overall as a soloist belay device?

wbw

Trad climber

'cross the great divide

Dec 30, 2015 - 10:45pm PT

I also have a soloist which is supposed to work on icy muddy frozen ropes any feedback on that Mr Braun?

I have used my Soloist ice climbing when the rope was completely encased in ice, including this past weekend, and it holds under these conditions. The device doesn't slide along the rope very well in these conditions (not that it does under ideal conditions), but it does hold.

I know a guy that used to tell me that his Soloist was so bomber that he never used the recommended backup knots. Anyone using a mechanical self-belay device without backup knots is playing Russian Roulette as far as I'm concerned.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 30, 2015 - 11:20pm PT

Anyone using a mechanical self-belay device without backup knots is playing Russian Roulette as far as I'm concerned.

I would entirely disagree.

Studly

Trad climber

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:36am PT

Logic has never been your strong point. I use my SP in freezing temps and whip on it occasionally. Never had a problem but I use a back up knot,just in case.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:47am PT

Well, facts, let alone logic, aren't exactly your stock-in-trade so it's not like your opinions are particularly devastating, let alone on a topic where you have comparatively little personal experience in the matter. And really, if owning a soloing device were the same as using one on a regular basis the internet would be awash in sage advice on the subject.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:55am PT

Lots of people have been using the gri gri for soloing in recent times without modifying it.

Probably need to be clear about the application here. For aid-soloing I use an unmodded grigri; for free lead rope soloing an unmodded grigri blows in the extreme.

WBraun

climber

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:55am PT

Because his number wasn't up he wasn't going anywhere.

When your number is up you can have 100 backups and they will all be worthless ....

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Dec 31, 2015 - 08:50am PT

Finite' - Finie'
THE END?

Rockies Obscure

Trad climber

rockiesobscure.com....Canada

Dec 31, 2015 - 09:40am PT

This is VERY interesting. It looks like older units didn't suffer of this issue then.

Hey Febs,
I am really glad you brought this topic up, even though I have never had it not lock in -5c, but it is worth investigating for sure.
I bought mine in 1998/99, when one half was painted purple.
I know nada about the interior workings of it, so I wonder if 15+ year old grease inside the cog(is there grease??) is still acceptable?
I always test on the ground, always use backup knot, kept inside house when not in use.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 31, 2015 - 09:59am PT

The fact that the SP is essentially a 'black box' is another thing that doesn't endear it to me. If I didn't know Blanchard designed it and he trusted the manufacturer I wouldn't have the confidence in it I do. Grigris and the Eddy are 'open to inspection' and so there is no mystery about the details of how they work, which is in their favor (in that regard).

Wade Icey

Trad climber

www.alohashirtrescue.com

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:23pm PT

unintelligent crankloon grease

i like it.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

Shetville , North of Los Angeles

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:37pm PT

Locker...Is your freezer plugged in..?

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Portland Oregon

Dec 31, 2015 - 07:39pm PT

I just started giggleing

ecdh

climber

the east

Dec 31, 2015 - 08:13pm PT

cool that Mr Lockers device didnt bung up. shows theres no cut n dried excuse to divert responsibility for using the things.

personal diligence, checked systems, acceptance of risk, understand its not golf and get on with it.

Febs

Trad climber

Northern Italy

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2016 - 07:10am PT

To me, that means that my unit has a problem that Locker's has not, that's quite obvious actually. And totally unrelated to what you say that is actually quite obvious as well.