Squamish Photos and Stories

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Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 05:30pm PT

Hamie- You are right artificial land is way better.

Tami- What's the deal?
Why does the ffa get to rename the route? Or is it just the "free" name?

If you aid it then you use the fa name?

new world order-

climber

Oct 6, 2011 - 07:38pm PT

Anyone up for some Corn Flakes?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 10:45pm PT

Tami - "there was no reason to it other then being naughty. Mischief." I can identify with that... I'm sure my mother would tell you i was not a perfect child, much less teenager :) I guess ultimately the responsibilty lies with KM for choosing to print the new names.

Interesting that KM would choose to keep the name Astronomy and put MDE in Quotes, but then change Artificial Land to Sentry Box and drop the reference entirely for AL.

I guess it's like they say "History is written by the victor", or in this case whomever chooses to record it.

NWO - nice Corn Flakes photo. Who's the soloist?

Edit- Retract my statement about KM being responsible for AL name change.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Oct 7, 2011 - 01:18am PT

The inadvertent name change from Artificial Land to Sentry Box occurred in the 1960s. The latter name was used in the 1967 guide, and became the established usage. The 1980 guide used Sentry Box, but noted the discrepancy.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2011 - 07:17pm PT

Tami- I geuss we strive to be different from our parents eh?

I visited Kyle last night and got some photos from him. Here is one of me on the Buttress 10c pitch this spring. I lead it but whipped before the piton. The last 10 feet was a stuggle. I was definetly not in good climbing shape after the winter. I had another shot at it later in the summer on tr and fell at the crux. Need to train this winter! Swear that pitch is harder than 10c!

Photo Nina Hagen

I was supposed to go to Skaha this weekend but both my girlfriend and I got sick. Weather kinda sucked anyways.. So here's a little eye candy till next weekend hopefully.

Bones sets up the anchor on The Dream, Skaha Bluffs

thekidcormier

Trad climber

squamish, b.c.

Oct 11, 2011 - 10:49pm PT

nice pics mike, woah that skaha route looks stellar, gotta make it out there sometime...

BTW: it feels 10c to me... might be a different story if that FP wasnt there...

I dont might clipping fixed pins when there is no gear, but whats with all the pins on the 2nd last pitch of angles crest, I might have to go yank em...

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2011 - 11:37pm PT

There might be alot of pissed off people if you did that. It might lead to bolts replacing them, which would be a crying shame imo.

Are those pins from the fa? Anyone know?

thekidcormier

Trad climber

squamish, b.c.

Oct 12, 2011 - 12:03am PT

Those pissed off peolple would then have to suck it up because the route takes killer gear, even if you only have a rack of singles.

In my opinion they are convenience pins and are completely unnecessary.

Anybody care to comment on the pitons in questions.

-Luke

thekidcormier

Trad climber

squamish, b.c.

Oct 12, 2011 - 01:09am PT

Tami do you mind if I start an `ask tami` thread. It seems as tho everyone, myself included, is always wondering about routes you and peter did and what not and they`re spread out all over this cyber-cesspool we call supertaco. I think questions directed at you need a little place to call home.

-Luke

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Oct 12, 2011 - 01:52am PT

Those pins ain't much to get worked up over. They've been there for years. I don't think they make our lives that much better or worse existing were they are.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Oct 12, 2011 - 01:53am PT

No fixed pins on the second ascent of the Upper Angel's Crest in 1962, 49 years ago! No such thing as 'fixed pins' then, just booty.

This reminds me of the small cliff near the old climbers' camp at Jenny Lake in the Tetons, mid 60s. The local climbing school/guides used it for teaching, and had several places for fixed pins. We would wander over every week or so, and help ourselves. They must have been important, cos they kept replacing them!

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 02:16am PT

Hamish- Hahahahahaha.. Booty land

A good thing I grabbed these the other night.

Kyle on the pitch in question
Photo: Luke Cormier

Here's some more Skaha crack for you Luke

Gangbang 10c, Skaha

Another one of Angel's

new world order-

climber

Oct 12, 2011 - 11:42am PT

More Angel's!

The acrophobe's traverse pitch at 5.7 is fave to not rope up for. The freedom way up high, unencumbered by a rope, can be quite exhilarating.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 12:27pm PT

NWO that reminds me of the time me and Kyle soloed the next pitch after Acrophobes. We did it to pass a slower party after the rap. The Upper Acrophobe tower is so exposed there it gave us quite the thrill.

I think the best way to deal with that pitch and the next would be simul both together and avoid some of the rope drag. My first time up there I could barely get to the belay the drag was so bad. Bringing my partner up was a mission!

Relic

Social climber

Vancouver, BC

Oct 12, 2011 - 12:44pm PT

Pooh clouds have attacked Squamish. It is time to evacuate south.

Look, no pooh clouds. A better place to be.

I'm losing my mind as to why I am not here right now.

In conclusion, must drive south ASAP before Squamishites drown in pooh clouds.