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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 4, 2005 - 03:02am PT
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I was going to put this up a long time ago... shot in Feb 2005.. and then I thought I would put it up when Link reported the broken ankle... so now I will do it. Sorry for the poor focus in some of the frames, I was hand holding the camera in low light conditions, and I moved... but it gives you a flavor.
Sorry for those who have a slow connection.
Also, if anyone knows who the team is they can contact me for prints.
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George_W_Bush
Big Wall climber
Crawford, TX
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The leader looks like he had it figured out pretty well, as did the second. Were they flailing when you watched them do it? I slipped a couple of times on the mantel but never peeled off.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Thanks for posting this! Looks easier and less scary than I had imagined...
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Shack
Social climber
So. Cal.
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I haven't climbed Nutcracker in about 20 years...
but the 2 stars next to in my Meyers guide means I must have liked it!?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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That mantle is so way easy.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Ed Hartouni, we meet again-
That is me and my friend Morgan climbing Nutcracker. I know this was a while ago, but do you still have prints? I'm staying up in Bishop right now at Paul's house till the end of the month, but e-mail me and let me know.
-Mike
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oh, and GW... Me? Flail? Never.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2005 - 11:58pm PT
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GW... no flailing, a stead, deliberate set of moves over the mantel... just wished I had my tripod that day...
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oblio
Trad climber
San Diego
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Hi again, Ed...hey is there any chance you could email some of those pics to me? I have none of the climb and would kind of like some. If so, my email is oblio74@gmail.com.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Hey Ed,
Where'd you photos go?
EDIT - nevermind - I see 'em now.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 11, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Did this with Ed years ago. Still have no clue how I clawed my way over that mantel. Never found a jug. Was following but still totally cotton-mouthed when I got over the top. Yowza!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 11, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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that mantle is quite scary..
i did this route on sight solo and was a bit unnerved when i got to that move..
whoa.
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pleasantOs
Trad climber
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Feb 11, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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that route, that move, onsight solo? YIKES! you are "the kid" i guess.
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salad
climber
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Feb 11, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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i think id been climbing about a half dozen times when i did NC. it was really hot and we had to sit and wait forever frying in the sun at the second pitch as there slow parties in front.
as i belayed the last pitch a soloist came by and hung out with me at the belay. couldnt even talk to the guy i was so freaked out. i didnt even know soloing existed.
as i followed the mantel there was a hefty amount of slack in the rope. i started to press it out and realized i had a sling around my neck dangling freely and the loose end was between my palm and the rock. almost pissed myself, but luckily i was severly dehydrated. oh so delicately did i roll my palm open juuuust enough to get that damn sling free.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Feb 11, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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cool vid Ed.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:32am PT
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That move is SO easy if you are in balane doing the mantle. Get just a bit out of balance and you will land on the ledge below though, no way to protect that final mantle move. One of those moves that you don't know hard it is going to be untill you do it. Really quite easy though. Such a great route for the grade, with a nice little mantle move at the end! The second route I led, onsite, after breaking my back (decking unroped) in 2002, (about 11 months later) Was a bit nervous making that move, but swallowed and cruised it. Never felt so stoked to lead a 5.8 before or since. (back in the saddle again) A MUST DO route for every Valley climber, despite the moderate grade.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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Allan Bard introduced me to the Nutcracker in 1978 (?) before sticky rubber .It was the first mantle I had confronted and remained the hardest anywhere.He climbed it several times to show me the move & had me do it several times on toprope. It became one of my favorite Valley routes .
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Awesome shots.
I seem to remember also being able to get a black alien (maybe blue?) up higher than the piece shown in the pics. Made for a little easier move, mentally at least.
Anyone else do the same, or am I just imagining that?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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I lead it in '89. Got stuck on it for a second then looked down and noticed a good foothold for the left foot on the left wall.
If you panic it's way harder than 5.8. If you realize it's only 5.8 and look around, it's pretty easy.
Sorry to all of those who busted ankles. It's not a very well protected move.
I'm kind or surprised that nobody at YOSAR ever went up there to bolt the thing to save the work of rescuing people. But then I guess they only get paid by the rescue and that one would be easier than some.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 12, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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That doesn't make any sense.
Why is YOSAR (US GOVT) supposed to bolt some climb as a preventative measure.
The US govt. would have to bolt the entire USA and be responsible for everything you do.
Not even practical.
Climbing would immediately be banned completely to protect you from yourself and your own responsibility from your own actions.
No more free will.
That would be stupid and there are actually people around these days that just would like to do that.
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