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Jim E
climber
away
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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I don't see any RURPS.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Ummm, can't see what the end pieces are, but the three in the middle are hooks, not RURP's.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Sometimes a little attention to grammar and syntax will make your communication understood. Jes' sayin'.
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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RURPS or hooks. Male or female. All that matters are those sweet, sweet tights.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Regardless of the metal used, the question I have is... but why?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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damn...
but really, that seems bold to propose it as being A6+, Saying its A6 would be a bold statement, even saying A5+ seems bold.
But, I won't argue too much with a guy hanging from 3 grappeling hooks for a belay...
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Looks like a fat bolt just down and left of the left most pic. Rope is clipped to it on a bight. Maybe the hooks are for cool magazine photo spread?
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
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You can piss a bolt hole in at the Fisher Towers........
A5, A6, A6+, it's all relative to the pucker factor.
Good thing at the Fisher's, if you take a 50 footer and hit a ledge, the ledge is just as likly to explode as your femur.....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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A6+?
Beyer touted A6 on the fishers right? What route are they on? Established already at A6+?
That does look like a fat bolt down and left, or a bomber titanium pin or somesuch.
All that Dyneema would probably cut, rip, or blow should that spinner at the belay take a static squat to pee.
Fu(king Euros
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Perhaps there are some things we don't see in the photo, and aren't told about.
Not that I intend to go anywhere near such places. Scary stuff! My Canadian Oxford defines rock as "the hard material of the earth's crust, exposed on the surface or underlying the soil" (emphasis added), and I'm sticking to it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
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Looking at that closely, it looks like there are 4 pieces clipped besides the hooks. Looks good though I never much enjoyed the hooks I have hung on.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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What a bunch of Brainless Monkeys!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Sweet link, dude! I would take the rating they give with a grain of salt, no need to armchair mountaineer this one to death ;D
Why are Spanish climbers (i assume they iz spanish) so badass?!?
I look a lot like this.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Yeah it's a total poser shot. Bomber bolts at the belay and he's on them.
Nobody unless you have death wish would belay off the hooks and a rurp like that.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 28, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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yo Jeremy, translation via the googles.
David Slap has just come from Titan (USA) in the Fisher Towers, where Esther Ollé has charted a new path "Look Out! Danger " which proposes A6 +. If confirmed by future grade repeaters, would be the first route in the world of this difficulty.
Tell me how this route is that you just opened.
It has 11 long, runs through the north western side of Titan, is a very direct line is about 315 meters of travel. It has three long A5, three A4 +, one of more of A6 and A3/A3 + +. The total number of days employees were thirteen. We set three long, seven days and from there to the top wall. The first idea was not to set any longer, but it is impossible to load up all these meetings, nor is fitted into them. Since the R3 go back around very slowly and very light material loads (up to 15 comebacks to have everything up, go bitch beating). We also had in mind not putting any fixed anchorage, but eventually the wall and sends to overcome a smooth wall section we go through the expansion. Iliad Go! as we had to go to Moab to buy a chipper and tacos, because we did not have anything. In the end we found some super mini rivets and ratty kids that fit right in our path. The meetings do not have any expansion.
What is this degree?
The A6 + no longer a proposal, simply. I have the reference of "Intifada", which is cotada A6. Then, without realizing it, we see that the meeting is actually more precarious that all material on the long out just by looking at and really drop there could be very serious (I will not say what for if you fall you kill yourself, because I hope not have you ever know). But technically speaking we believe that has raised the bar. Moreover, the material used is normally used in Montserrat: timber, lead ... and in this type of rock is super romantic.
In an A6 ... you if you fall to the ground and not survive ... and in A6 +?
Because the ground below you can not fall ...
I like this question because it is typical that everybody makes. I see it differently: the artificial soil technician calibrate it differently. Yes it's true that Jim Beyer proposed "drops 70 meters and threatening" but it is true that the danger of death accompanies us every day since we got up we went to bed (even snoring is there). By this I mean that the proposed A6 + not because I'm thinking that we can kill, if not up a little more technical difficulty, both in meetings and on the sites of the lengths. What I can assure you is that in a drop-in specific, you can freak out quite long.
Meetings "hold out a fall?
Aaaaaahhhh !!!!! That is the great unknown. Meetings are cool, but chung, are painful.
Is the most difficult track in the world fib? And open for a non-American?
Damn! And my fault if the rock does not give the end plugs! I have a passion, and Fishers haunt me ...
Is there much difference between this route and to repeat the year?
Yes, "Intifada" to me is the VIA! Line is a brutal, brilliant, super well met. One way to enjoy (we must never forget where you are), a line that follows a logical system of fissures. Our way, in my opinion, is heavier and lasts. To open a long afternoon of 15 to 17 hours. Too much even for a fanatic like me.
And to put it to Esther, your companion, in a wall to do an activity where the play will not only you but also her. Much you want it to you and you bit it right?
Jajaja ... This time the fault is not mine. This year we rolled it alone, but is lucky to be with someone who shares and respects what you do. I can assure you that if you've come is because she knows every line with a well nochesoñaba alone in the vastness of the Titan ... Aaahhh ... hush, hush, I wear silly ...
His mother does not know, I guess….
Yes, you know. The one who does not know it is mine.
Why the high artificial climbing difficulty?
Why free climbing high difficulty? Why the extreme mountaineering? Why the speed records? Why every day at seven tomorrow currar? Why can not I play the original happy? Why not ?
Mechanical're race bikes do not you have anything else to do in your spare time to return to the mechanical wall?
I just relax, and is truth, is pure mechanical plugs. The best thing is hanging up there do not smell like gasoline.
Tell me about the feeling of opening a channel of these features
Simply brutal. Little more can I say it is one thing I feel inside, you just feel good, no hurry, no clock ... When your arm can only get off the hammock and enjoy the scenery ... and tomorrow. For me it is a brutal stress release.
Seven days for 300 meters is it worth?
I think we should all fight for our projects. This question makes me my mother every time I go climbing. And the answer is always the same: while I feel good, that means it's worth.
Has there been a very dangerous situation? Did you fall?
Well ... there are several sites of tension, one is in the fourth over, that we must go below the ET (and I got him a super mega huge block that holds almost levitating). Here you have to "float", because as you c#m on by to say hello you can have a little problem seriously. And another long chunguillo is the seventh, where a A5r (to drop the "Hilton", the name we gave to the bivouac). Top Fall "? For the first long, just start the first step, the first head I put aluminum. I was lazy and did not want to work, so I stick a rolled "slutty" sort of "armor" [David uses protections for motorists as protection]. After the laughter I thought going to sh#t, the first step and I fell ...
How to sleep in a A6 +?
Better than the parking of the Towers, because there has to be paid in the hammock and not (you know how we are Catalans: the peel is peeling, jajaja)
And if you get scared and want to download ... is it possible to mount something solid to rappel?
You better call the "Power Rangers, jajaja. I will not think. In line rappels where will we go down we have lost a lot of anchors. I have a very interesting collection at home.
Have you wanted to go down many times while paving the way? And Esther?
Not get off. I did not want was to begin. Was too lazy with all the solano falling from noon until he left, and more at night knowing that there would be cool beer. But once the first bivouac bajarías you no longer ever.
Do I need to go to U.S. to find where to open these routes? Have not we field walls so dangerous?
Well, that I ask myself, but what is certain is that the Fisher Towers special characteristics to meet the extreme escalation. And for me all the walls are dangerous, especially those that make the V / V +.
I guess you see in normal artificial way to make high-difficulty (and much risk) is not very common ...
For me what is unusual is to go walking with the bag and the sandwich. Think there's always a minority who share this hobby. And from there, all those "extreme enthusiasts pedal" I thank you for letting me share the other side of the rope, then waits at the meetings are priceless.
Do you still talking Esther after this?
It is really dumb ... ... jajaja, es broma, damn, what if you talking about?, Not to say that next year will do the Camino de Santiago, alone and cycling ... because it will be? Nor does the case so badly! Every day I gave an invigorating shower of mud ....
The first feeling when you reach the top?
Stress, high stress ... It was twenty minutes before dark, the rappel is painful sh#t you makes a wind of the host, Esther and I hear rain above,-ass. Later, later, in the hammock, I visualize the moment and Buuaaa! Brutal !.... Titan Thanks for letting us share your loneliness.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
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They are all poser shots - but I do not see any reference to belaying from rurps by the authors just in the taco stand title.
The belay shot is a bit of spoof as they are belaying off what looks to be at least one bolt but using hooks and couple rurps to back things ups.
And as for the grade, what ever, if they had fun who cares.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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Didn't Bridwell create a rurp anchor on the FA of Pacific Ocean?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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More anchor overkill. According to Donini, you only need one of those hooks.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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Medusa is correct! You CAN see two eye-bolts below the hooks. A poseur shot for sure! So f-ing euro! Where are the RURP's you guys are talking about? I see no RURP's anywhere.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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There is rurp there.
You need glasses to see.
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