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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Dawson
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Is Braille Book usually wet or dry in the Spring?
Thanks
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BooYah
Social climber
Ruby Range
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Apr 28, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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Little of both.
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Dawson
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 03:03am PT
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Can you be more specific?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:00am PT
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The first time I did it, many moons ago, was in April. It was dry then, except for the blood and tears my partner left on the crux pitch.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:08am PT
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Specifically....... it will be fine. Great and novel route.
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Dawson
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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Novel?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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Just get on the rig, you'll have a good time. Or not. There was sure a lot of bail gear everywhere when we did it!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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Dawson, I guess you are wanting beta and impression, judging from your last remark.
I did this route back in the early 1970's onsite, unroped. I say it is novel, in that it is really highly featured, namely frequent foot and hand holds occur and so it stands apart from many Yosemite climbs in having so many of these. There are climbs where there basically aren't more than a couple of footholds while the whole deal is a crack system. This is not such a climb. It actually is kind of semi-friendly, reminiscent of Nutcracker, but a tiny bit more exposed. You will want to pay attention to your routefinding; if something seems harder than harder 5.8, you might be offroute or approaching the section with a bad idea in mind. This route is 5.8; it is not harder.
It is more like a Meadows or Leap climb this way. Fairly nutable, and with cams even more so. Not all that steep most of the time, a couple little dinky roofette moves and spots. I think it is given a 3-star recommendation; if not, then two stars. There is a hike of course, but once you get going it's not too long before you are at the base. It has been popular over the last 30 years by the way; you might encounter other parties.
There was an epic fall up there. It was by Jim Stanton. I think 1970? I think it was over 200 feet. Maybe Werner remembers, although it was before his time even. Stanton--- a very friendly, energetic young guy that liked to hang out with Bridwell a lot--- was not very experienced, chubby and a bit too optimistic. He took a smallish fall and then zipped all his poorly placed pro. There is a bit of legend over this event. Protecting the climb is not desparate; many intermediate climbers fire the thing no problem. Jim was actually okay eventually.
I am pretty sure it is dry enough presently also so doing it makes sense, rather than some of the other kooky proposals we have been seeing here on ST recently, like not waiting to do routes that are currently rivers of snowmelt.
goodluck, ph.
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scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
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Apr 29, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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I've done the climb a few times, not many,
Some impressions from my first time up it in 73
2nd or 3rd pitch, I'm belaying, suddenly as my partner nears the
top of his lead, I hear his breath and voice coming out of the
crack right in front of me.
Belay ledge in the side of a chimney just below the crux.
Chimneying to semi-wild stemming, I've heard this described as
an offwidth.
Last pitch, fun, easy, super featured. 5.0-5.6, who knows, too
fun to rate.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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