Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
|
While wearing my pink shirt in support of all the teachers at my site that were pink slipped, and as a symbol of my complete contempt for the educational establishment embodied by No Child Left Behind and the antics of Arnold and Barack, I have decided to "flee" my confines and head for Yosemite next week to solo- aid the first ten pitches of the Muir route on El Cap. Just wondering if the Heart ledges rap route is still "fixed" or should I plan on carrying an extra rope to assure my safe passage to the ground. Thanks
Cracko
|
|
elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
|
You will be subjected to rock and ice fall from above on that part of the route... I would stay away from it until later in the spring and most likely the ropes are not up and if they are they should be viewed with extreme caution.
|
|
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
|
Thank you Tom, maybe I should head for Zion.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
|
There were no fixed lines to Heart in place on March 8, 2009.
Were you really serious about doing a long climb with only one rope? What kind of retreat or self-rescue options does that give you? (I think I am saying: go climb, but don't escape from all realities! :-) )
And like Tom said, there were various sized pieces of ice which fell during the day. This happens when there is snow on the rim and the temp up there freezes overnight.
There are many other aid routes which can be done besides the lower Muir. And Zion can be fragile after rains.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2009 - 12:47am PT
|
Settle on a venue and i will try to come heckle
Sent a Trip report to your school paper. I can hear it now;
"D-ude, principal cracko went nailing on the Muir, solo..."
"You mean principal Whacko!"
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
|
Good grief! You can't go up a wall with only one rope! How the hell are you going to rap off?
At least bring a skinny rope that you can tie to your fat rope, and know how to rig the single rope rappel that the Petzl catalogue describes [using a butterfly and a locker].
If I were soloing, my second rope could be thinner, but I would make sure it was fully rappel-able as a single strand - it's too hard to rap down your lead line when the pitches overhang and/or traverse.
|
|
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
|
Settle down my wall brethren !! I would never venture onto any wall without a minimum of two ropes. Sorry about my inability to communicate my plans while trying to get some ideas from this forum. Thank God there are people like Mike O. around here who, like a quality teacher, focus on one's human potential. I promise I will stay out of everybody's way, and demonstrate prudence in working a few pitches on El Cap during the next week. If you happen to see me, please resist the urge to yell......You're Gonna Die !!!!
Thanks
Cracko
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
|
Your first post made it sound like your intention was to take one rope.
Regardless of the Heart Rappels, you wouldn't be able to rap your lead line (without major difficulty) on p6 of the Muir. So you will need a extra rope anyway.
Also, the first 10 pitches of Muir would be a really long hard day for a solo climber unless you are super fast, but fwiw, you can bail over to the Heart raps on like p7 or 8.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2009 - 01:02am PT
|
hey there cracko... say, best wishes for a hearty and safe climb... say, remember to share a trip report! :)
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!