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PJcol
Boulder climber
birminghan
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 13, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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I would like relatively stronger shoulders.
I'm capable of doing repeaters on a very small (1/2 smallest campus rung) strip, yet I don't have the shoulder stability to easily do a one arm hang.
of course I can hang by one arm all day from a jug, but on a more realistic hold, I feel that I swing about too much and can't get the shoulder girdle to do any work.
I'm about a V5 boulderer, capable of working V6 in a session, to give you an idea, and can hold a one-arm lock on each side for about 3 seconds. So shoulders are definitely the relatively weakest link in the chain.
I'm quite a big build, around 190 lbs at 183 centimetres, but that isn't going to change so no diet suggestions, please!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 13, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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If you can hang one-arm from a jug, your shoulder girdle isn't the issue.
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NotIt
Trad climber
LA westside - 4 more months
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Feb 13, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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My answer to most everything, probably tiresome around here soon enough:
Yoga.
My shoulders were always the weakest link in my upper body after years of too much bench pressing and lat pulling (High School show muscles) and not enough everything else.
Downward dog is the most fundamental pose in Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, and is a fantastic shoulder opener and strengthener. Inversions, arm balances, and some forward folds are also incredible for the upper back and front body.
This will go far: http://www.expertvillage.com/video/56271_sivananda-yoga-dolphin.htm (esp. the dolphin pushups around 1:05).
Failing that, take up surfing or, based on your location, swimming.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Feb 13, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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Keep your shoulders balanced. Lots of people get shoulder problems by not working the antagonistic muscle groups.
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quartziteflight
climber
Who knows?
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Feb 13, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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How many pullups can you do?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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Many climbers develop poor shoulder posture over time which can lead to pain, inflammation, weakness and injury. Typically the shoulders are forward, and their owner will initiate an overhead reach by moving the shoulder up towards the ear. Exercises which open the shoulders, broaden them, and strengthen the rhomboid and back muscles are key. As mentioned above, the Yoga can be good. I like Pilates myself. And lots of push ups (preferably destabilized: feet on ball or hands on roller or ball, etc.) I recommend against trying to achieve hyper flexibility in the shoulders though. The shoulder joint already trades stability for range of motion, and going too far with this is a road to injury.
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PJcol
Boulder climber
birminghan
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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to quartseflight:
I can do 14 pull ups with outwards grip, and I can do 3 with half my bodyweight attached.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 13, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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I can do 14 pull ups with outwards grip, and I can do 3 with half my bodyweight attached.
Well there's your problem little missy..... You just ain't that strong.
seriously though: Shoulders and their problems are legion among climbers. I've run the dislocate route and torn cuff route, and the only thing that helped was weight training to stabilize the entire area. Go for balance in all the groups. I'm sure that sitting cross legged in leotard is good for something, but for a fast and assured fix, hit the gym.
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