anyone remember this climbing issue?

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

Rudder

Trad climber

Santa Rosa, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2009 - 05:16am PT

I think I still have it... that's a 5.4!

And, I believe inside is an article called "A defense of 5.6." I could write an article like that now. :)

Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber

pitch above you

Jan 15, 2009 - 07:25am PT

Andrew, Gunks.

AbeFrohman

Trad climber

new york, NY

Jan 15, 2009 - 08:14am PT

Funny. I was going to guess the gunks. Andrew was my first day of climbing outside.

troutboy

Trad climber

Newark, DE

Jan 15, 2009 - 08:50am PT

Yep. Remember it. Also remember thinking "Yikes !" sure glad the leader did not fall.

As I recall (and it's hard to tell from this photo but much easier in the one from Dick Dumais' book - same pic) there is no gear between leader and belayer. Factor 2 fer sure.

Sure it's only 5.4, but not knowing the climbers (the pic in the book does not ID them) I always wondered whether they were 5.10 climbers on a 5.4 route, or maybe at or near their limit......

RichG or anyone know who these guys are ?

TS

Prod

Trad climber

A place w/o Avitars apparently

Jan 15, 2009 - 09:00am PT

5.4? Really? Easier than the 3rd Flatiron?

Prod.

richross

Trad climber

gunks,ny

Jan 15, 2009 - 09:03am PT

The climbers are Paul(leading) and Iza Trapani. The pic is from the 70's.Paul has cranked down 5.10's and harder.
Paul is shown with others in thinker mode at the 2008 Gunks reunion at the McCarthy wall.

He is sitting below the start of Coexistence,one of the Gunks first 5.10's.

Also in the pic are Barbara Devine,Ivan Rezucha,Laura Smith and daughter of Rick Cronk(name?).

Paulina

Trad climber

Jan 15, 2009 - 09:23am PT

Prod, if you love roofs and hate friction, I'd say it's easier than the 3rd Flatiron :-).

troutboy

Trad climber

Newark, DE

Jan 15, 2009 - 11:33am PT

The climbers are Paul(leading) and Iza Trapani. The pic is from the 70's.Paul has cranked down 5.10's and harder.
Paul is shown with others in thinker mode at the 2008 Gunks reunion at the McCarthy wall.
===
Now that's funny. Why ? Becasue I know and have climbed with Paul but never realized it was him.

That also explains the lack of gear :) It really was a 5.10+ climber on a 5.4 route.

Also odd: In 14 years of climbing there I have never done Andrew. I think that shall be first on the list this year.

Thanks RR.

TS