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brat
climber
El Portal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2008 - 01:31am PT
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Saw some folks climbing the face just to the right of Vernal Falls a few days ago. I haven't been able to find any info about routes there. Does anyone know what's up there?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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There's a route that starts on the left side of the fall, and ends on the right. Doable in very low water years, such as this one. 5.8, done in the 1960's (See Roper's green guide).
John
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:35am PT
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Vernal Falls, Right Side
II, 5.8 Al Steck, Jim Wilson, and Dick Long, October 1966. Climb up to the base of the left side of the waterfall, then traverse across the fall in an upward direction. After 160 feet of climbing, a point 60 feet below the rim is reached. Ascend a strenuous jamcrack and narrow chimney to the top. This climb is best accomplished when the water is barely active.
Steve Roper, Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley 1971
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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talk about obscure routes. Wow.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 03:03am PT
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"Climb up the base of the left side of the waterfall."
The route finding could be a bit interesting, too.
Geographers and such folk describe directions differently than some others. Their "right" and "left" is often based on the direction that water flows, or would flow. In other words, based on facing downhill. This provides a somewhat objective frame of reference, at least for those of us stuck in four dimensions and not having to worry about dark matter, dark energy, and the dark force.
In this case, Roper may be referring to the left side - as viewed from below, which is how the climb is approached. Or is he referring to the true left side in geographical terms, that is looking down the waterfall?
Of course, he could just provide the GPS coordinates.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 09:11am PT
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who knows, Roper's guide was an "adventure guide," which I always believed was both passive and active.
Go with the eyes of Steck, Wilson and Long and puzzle out the description, no doubt you'll have a good ol' time!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Oct 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Standard notation is River Left or River Right.
These would be the directions as if you were Moving Downstream.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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Roper's directions were always as if one were facing the rock (Roper red guide, p. 32).
John
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