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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 23, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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in supertopo (bizarro) world, the ditch and josh are the center of the universe.
But the Canadian Fukkingg Rockies is off the charts.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:25am PT
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I am reminded of an ascent of Tarrant Buttress on Odaray Peak.
The guidebook stated " A good introduction to the harder routes, on excellent rock"
The lower 1000ft consisted of blocky, vegetated quartzite, choss but at least there was some decent gear for belays. The quartzite then degenerated into another 1000 fet of the usual shattered limestone where decent anchors were almost non existent. Connecting the lower buttress to the main mass of the mountain was a completely tottering and unbelievably exposed knife edge. At the other side of the ridge was a 300 foot long, 60 degree mudfield studded with occasional large blocks of dubious stability. The stuff of nightmares.
In many ways the route saved the best for last. I remembering looking down at my partner as I climbed the last pitch, he was sitting with no anchor astride a steep knife edge of mud with huge gullies dropping on either side. I was clawing my way up a vertical corner, about 100ft high whose walls consisted of an endless stack of tiny rock fragments, imagine a corner whose walls consist of stacked dominos and you get the idea.
Its been nearly 20 years and the thought of it still brings a sweat to my fingers. I climbed about 50 routes in the Rockies over a period of 5 years and I've got to say they are some of the best climbing experiences I ever had.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:26am PT
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hey there marky... say, not sure if you mean canadian rockies, as some kind of a climbing group forum----as supertopo is----or if you meant the mountains... the canadian rockies....
i had always wanted to see the canadian rockies since i was just a kid.... do you have pics to post, of various areas of the mountain ranges in canada....?
some one recently posted some great pics from a trip.... please post, if you have some.. god bless...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:28am PT
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hey there jeremy.... as to this quote of yours:
"Its been nearly 20 years and the thought of it still brings a sweat to my fingers. I climbed about 50 routes in the Rockies over a period of 5 years and I've got to say they are some of the best climbing experiences I ever had."
yea! ... this is what i was hoping to hear, or see... thanks for the share... anyone got any pics... ? thanks for the share...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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the center of the universe is where you are at...
It was there once for me, 1985 approach to Mt. Robson
Looking down the SSW Ridge of Robson
Mt. Athabasca on a good day
The Athabasca glacier with Snow Dome above
Alpine!
Pigeon Spire, the Bugaboos
Mike on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
Mt Edith Cavell
Mt. Saskatchewan
Tami Knight!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:37am PT
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hey there ed.... all RIGHT!... .wow, way to post up.... (my computer is a mite slow... but i'm waiting... ) ... :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 24, 2008 - 01:44am PT
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hey there ed.. i always loved seeing the alps... and the matterhorn area.... and have seen some pics of the teton areas... and some pics from the tibet areas that folks have showed... but say, after seeing these from canada, man oh man, seems it touched my heart as to the handy work of the good lord and made me cry some soft tears at the beauty....
thanks for the share....
*also, the other great pics here online of canada trips and alaska are great too... but these pics somehow just captured some huge magnificent views in a new way, and seem most powerfuly choice....
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