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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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Anybody done this thing? It's a recommended route in Sierra Classics. The pictures look good. Anybody have an article that can be scanned? 4 or 5 pitches of 5.9 and one or so of 5.10. Then a big ridge/arete climb for a long while. Long grade IV.
Just doing a little dreaming while ignoring work.
Zander
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 14, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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Haven't done it.
I do know that more info should be on the way soon. Cam Burns was looking for additional beta on climbs on the Fourteeners for a new edition of his book. That was last fall, I think, and I gave him info on new routes on Whitney. Should be out soon.
A suggestion, since I seem to be dreaming at work too. If yo walk in during summer over Bishop Pass, there is miles of talus. But if you ski in during the spring, that's all buried. Smooth sailing and fun descents too.
Good luck out there.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
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Cam Burns book has the best beta I've seen. Just a little better than Secor.
I hiked in to Barrett Lakes one time and it is a lot of talus at the end. I wish I was a better CC skier. I bet that's a great winter trip.
Zander
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Apr 14, 2008 - 04:56pm PT
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Uh-Oh, what are you cooking up now Zander?
Get outside lately? I been doing yard work and taking my boys for bike rides.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Hey spy,
Not really cooking up anything yet. Just collecting ingredients. My weekends are shot for climbing right now. Might have to take a day off work. Looking forward to EB of EC though.
Zander
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 14, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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No, No, No Z:
We're talking SPRING trip. Hawaiian shirt mandatory. Sun is high, smowpack cooks off to deep corn (the kind they can't co-opt for biofuel). This is a south face, sun all day long. Snow could last well into June.
Low on BC ski skills, there are still options. New wave XC skis are fat as old skool downhills, only shorter, more sidecut and have waxless bases. Nice and stable. Add skins for the steep climbs, and you can keep 'em on for the steep descents. Like training wheels. Mammoth Mountaineering rents em.
Or go with just boots, plus ice axe or ski poles and hoof it in. Still easier than talus. Only you have to travel night or early morning to avoid postholing.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Apr 14, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
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Wow
I’ve bin dreaming about that route to!
Looks like one of the coolest lines in the book.
It would be awesome if anyone had any photos they could post.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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DR, I'm leaving to buy a Hawaian shirt now! Gotta have the right gear.
Gobi, It does look cool, doesn't it!
Z
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2008 - 06:35pm PT
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Here's the photo from Cal 14ers guide book. Buy this book so I won't get in trouble for scanning this photo. It is route number 9.
The first wall is approx 800 feet. Looking at the map I'd say its another 600 plus feet to the summit.
Anybody have a better picture?
Zander
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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