Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Jacko
Trad climber
Grass Valley Ca.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
|
For those of you who have climbed it, How bad was the Pro on the 2nd pitch??? Is it worth the Hike? Thank's Jacko
|
|
HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
|
I don't remember it being "bad". Leading those pitches I was like.....hmmmm supposed to be a bad spot here...wonder where it is? There yet? Hmm I'm at the top of the 2nd pitch ok. There might have been a little bit of space on a couple 5.7 moves, but I remember good pro around the one little mantle roofy/corner thing that was the little move on the pitch.
|
|
Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
|
Not that bad. If I remember correctly, it starts with a 5.9 section that the topo shows as poor pro...seemed absolutely fine to me. Then there is a 5.7 section up higher, yes the pro was not good but if you can climb the Red Dihedral pitch you will have no problem. The Red Dihedral pitch is long, hard, and brilliant. Unfortunately, much of the rest of the climb is sort of ho hum. BUT on an amazing formation in an incredible setting. We also did Positive Vibrations, which after 30 years of climbing I consider to be the best route I have ever done. The hike is brutal with a heavy load, which we had. Enjoy!
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
|
It shut me down a couple of years ago. Back in the day, I was known as a pretty bold guy, but now with extra poundage and all, I'm not so hot.
I had other excuses too, but anyway, someone got some booty offa me.
|
|
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
|
Nice post Jacko !!
Clearly the crux is getting our asses back there!! This makes me feel a little better about that second pitch. At least on the Red Dihedral pitch you can French Free it if you flame out !!!
Old men on the Hulk!! Let's do it !!!
Cracko
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
|
It's worth the hike.
It's a really nice hike back there, and great location.
You should go there ......
|
|
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2008 - 12:09am PT
|
Thanks Werner.....I think you're right !!!
|
|
ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Between Tuscano and Liguria, Italia
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2008 - 02:30am PT
|
The pitch below the red dihedral is not bad at all. Actually, the 5.10 moves at the top of the red dihedral are even cake compared to the dihedral itself. I made the mistake of linking the first two pitches to a point 2/3 of the way through the ST second pitch. Then lead a LONG red dihedral pitch and was pretty smoked by the top.
I dont agree that the rest of the route is ho-hum. There are some incredible double cracks later on and the scenerey is amazing. Also the last pitch is pretty funny!
One bit of beta is to make sure that you dont top out in the dark. Finding the rap station is not trivial in decent light but finding it inthe dark would be pretty tough since it was not where I was expecting it to be. You dont have to rush though - we did it car to car and were not on the route until about 10 or so.
good luck!
http://web.mac.com/thomaskeefer/Keefer_Site/Red_DihedralP2.html
|
|
Jacko
Trad climber
Grass Valley Ca.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
|
Thank's to all for the Info...Great TR Thomas and you have a good looking family there..Never been to the Twin lake's area, and now the Hulk is on my List..Jacko
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!