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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
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unexpected days off, no partner, barely fit enough to fall off the couch, dumping snow in the valley, don't want to blow out my tips in a half hour and be forced to hike and swill the rest of the time. Is there enough aid climbing to justify the drive/gas$? Is there a circuit? prefer C to A but don't want to bunge up anyone's proud 14a crack proj. Edify please.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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thanks Russ knew i could count on you.
"Today some people still occasionally want to aid climb this free route. This is probably not a very good idea, because it is a very very popular free climb, and there's no need to aid climb this with many other options where the aid climber will not be in anyone's way. And if you ever decide you want to aid climb this with pitons, you will burn in Hell for all eternity, plain and simple.
Go somewhere else to play Mr. El Capitan Aid Thug, and leave this one to the free climbers. "
precisely what I'm looking for. maybe i'll just bring the pad and the cooler and do some sport napping.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 24, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
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You guys crack me up........( The first time I did Coarse and Buggy was with aiders;....and , while free climbing the route, I've fallen at the top a time or two;.....making the climb 5.10+ A1)....Do aid, get laid.......
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Feb 24, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
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Dude theres killer aid lines in your backyard, go aid the grand illusion in the rain, then head over to Donner and do Starwalls crack, steep enough to be dryish except the seeps which will get you used to the Drip, I mean the Trip. Stop by if on this side of the hill....
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 25, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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Speaking of aid at Donner, did anyone ever aid the chockstone bolder at the top of the snowshed walls? I'd always eyed that thing and wondered about giving it a go.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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There are plenty of Aid routes left in Josh without resorting to aiding free routes (eg: Coarse & Buggy -- as an aid route it had been once or maybe twice, as a free route hundreds of times).
Todd's site lists a lot of real aid climbs, and some are real adventures.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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Left Ski Track is a good aid climb... You'll need a ladder to start though!!! =)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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nah ladders are for bouldering.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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