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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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The Seward Highway offers a little sport for Anchorage locals but the Ruth Gorge is truly world class AND, with a little luck, you can be in base camp 24 hrs. after leaving the lower 48.
Post up, give this special place some love.
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Oct 21, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
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Thanks Jim!
Always a good adventure in the Ruth.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2015 - 04:55am PT
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Great shots Mark! Heading to the Creek this morning , wish you were here!
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Gary
Social climber
Hell is empty and all the devils are here
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Oct 22, 2015 - 05:21am PT
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Terrific shots! Looks slightly adventuresome. :-) TFPU
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 22, 2015 - 06:44am PT
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Ruth Amphitheater & Gorge
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Oct 22, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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going in april...
is it bad form to fly right into the root canal for 1st trip to Ruth gorge???
also it seems like ice season there is getting earlier and earlier every year, and conditions are getting more volatile with stuff falling down...
was thinking of ham & eggs/ shaken in early april, how is peak 11,300 this time of year? too much snow? i'd assume it would be too cold/ snowy to do pure rock routes that time of year.
all my experience up there (2 trips over last 2 years to kahiltna area) it seems like there is a month or so gap in between ice and rock season in the ruth, and in between is a mess where nothing can get climbed...
Thoughts?
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Bent knee
Ice climber
VT
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Oct 22, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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Gateway to the Gorge
Gorge from Mooses Tooth
Lower Gorge
Tunneling
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Oct 23, 2015 - 07:58am PT
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no love for the ruth gorge?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 23, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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It sucks!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 23, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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Man do I want to goto that place.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 23, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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Never climbed, just did the tourist thing. Would love to go back and climb some day.
I figure if Jim can still do it at his extreme old age I still have a chance ;)
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Oct 24, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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is it bad form to fly right into the root canal for 1st trip to Ruth gorge???
No! :)
also it seems like ice season there is getting earlier and earlier every year, and conditions are getting more volatile with stuff falling down...
Generally true.
was thinking of ham & eggs/ shaken in early april, how is peak 11,300 this time of year? too much snow? i'd assume it would be too cold/ snowy to do pure rock routes that time of year.
Early April, Ham and Eggs might be full of snow. A little later is usually better. Shaken either is formed or is not but it holds less snow as it's steeper.
11300 is usually better in May, and even better after somebody has stepped up and broken the trail. :)
all my experience up there (2 trips over last 2 years to kahiltna area) it seems like there is a month or so gap in between ice and rock season in the ruth, and in between is a mess where nothing can get climbed...
Best bet for ice routes in the Ruth is mid March to beginning of May, the end of that depending on how warm it is getting.
Rock season in the Ruth is generally early to mid-June onward.
If you're trying snow/ice routes in May it goes without saying that climbing at night is important. Late May is typically undesirable for either sort of objective. Rock is wet, ice and snow routes are coming apart and the nights are too short and not cold enough to keep things relatively safe. Exceptions of course in some years.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 24, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
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Love
Love
Love
this thread.
More, please!
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Oct 24, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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thanks mark!
was hoping you would respond.
seeing lots of rock pics...
what about ICE?
what are everyone's favorite ice/mixed routes?!
(that are easy enough for me to do...wi5/m5???, and not the obvious aforementioned mooses tooth climbs)
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Oct 24, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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batrock,
flying over is almost as good as climbing alaska range! nice looking family!
Cmac (if that is even really you...)
love those pics in the supertopo guide!
DONINI...
we are not worthy!!!
Sierra LEDGE rat,
read your summitpost story on the korean west rib report of the 70's.
wild stuff in climbing history!
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Oct 24, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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Christoph- Pure ice routes in the gorge are kind of in short supply to be honest. Most of the established lines there are usually s'nice more than ice. There's an ice route on the Bear Tooth, accessible from the Root Canal, called "Unforgiven"- I have not done it but it sounded pretty cool. Also the route "Kuriositeten" on the unnamed peak between Bradley and Dickey, put up a few years back, also sounded interesting.
Ben Gilmore and partner put up a route on the northeast side of Barrille that also sounded intriguing, and it had a grade 5 ice pitch on it. There's a topo for that route in the ranger station. Ben wrote "Destined to be a CLASSIC!" on the topo.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 24, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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This is really a good one. THX Jim.
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Oct 24, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Mark, nice shot of Lara Kellog (Bitnieks) and Chad Kellogg, both amazing people who are no longer with us, on Goldfinger. Miss them immensely!!
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