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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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Oh Man.... post em up. The shet your pants wtf is this Ace Hardware I'm gonna die, stories.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Yur lucky! Half of the ones I replaced I literally tapped with my hammer and then pulled out with my fingers... the bolts.
If so many only knew the truth of the shet I encountered and replaced.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Thank you so much for taking the time to do that. Quite possibly saving someones life.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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Unfortunately, the manner that anyone put them in was..... not so good.
What I found was that the holes that the original bolts were inserted into were oversized/blown out at the initial drill point for a good 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.
Thus allowing any moisture to enter and ultimately do it's corrosion thang.
A very common issue I encountered not just in them Hills, btw.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Thanks for replacing non-ss bolts.
Water will get into the bolt hole regardless of size of the initial hole opening. A slightly cratered hole opening should not affect tension strength since the shear cone develops from near the bottom of the bolt. When the bolt is loaded in shear, the bolt may experience some bending at the surface as well- then if the angle of pull slightly changes because of the bending, the bolt may experience a component of tension.
Are you reusing the holes?
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Negative on the old holes. I always Re-drilled, with a PD in most cases, and initiated a whole new enchilada for either the anchor or pro hanger with SS 5 Piece Rawls, 3/8 or 1/2'ers, Hangers and Anchor Hardware from ASCA. Filled in the old holes and camo'd em up like they never existed.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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I have been replacing a lot of these in Colorado in Clear Creek Canyon(Cat Slab and Highwire Crag) and also at the Monastery near Estes Park. The ones at belays were being used as rappel/lower points and since the metal is soft they were getting worn through and dangerously thin.
Too bad these were a staple of the dirtbag climbers kit for a while.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:59am PT
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Of course they were Locker. You don't fk up, ever. You have too much time on your hands to do so. Move along now.
BTW Locker, which of them "A-Hill Routes" were Your perfect bolts/anchors on? Curious.
I have photos of every route/bolt I replaced there.
Bhilden.... Yup! I will dig through my photos but I have several that were worn down to a Dimes thickness and actually watched people rap off of em.
INSANE!!!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Not a shut but why salt water and mixed metals are bad ju ju
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
Sep 1, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.
Which ones... Those made of Chinese, Russian, French, Mexican or USofA's metals/ones.
And I do not think that applies to a Shut that has less than 1/2 of a MM of metal left to bear on the rope contact area.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Why would you think worn shuts would be stronger?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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^^^^What?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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About the worn shuts being "stronger". I remember reading something about the worn groove kept the rope at the bottom of the shut which kept the rope in line and prevented it from riding up the open side and bending it open. It was somewhere on ST, maybe a banquo thread?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Someone did some tests I saw. New cold shuts would roll open at "x" force. The rope would slide out on the shut, opening it to failure. A modest groove would hold the rope in place, strengthening the shut. Of course there comes a point when the shut is compromised.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Thanks, Chief. We all you. Keep the faith and the good works.
BAd
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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And have any of you felt the edges of the "worn groove" on many of the those shuts.
Razor sharp.
Any forward or aft movement of that rope and cut em up baby!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Replaced the anchors on top of Killer Pillar today. Only 2 were 5/16" button heads, but I replaced everything as nothing was stainless and I was there anyway. Now, as for those two 1/2" cold shunts with the nice long 1/2" bolts: I clipped into the right hand one and pulled the left hand one just for inspection as I didn't plan to replace those monsters. Just as expected, all was good with just a little surface rust. The right hand one was loose and would not tighten up so I decided to pull it also. As I loosened it I noiticed the bolt was bent, and when removed I found a 1" long horizontal crack at the base where the bolt goes thru and a vertical crack part way thru in the same location as the horizontal crack. There was fresh chalk on the holds below and a bit of spilled chalk on top. Who ever is working this route (The Hundredth Monkey) will probably be pissed off to find one of those monster cold shunts missing and a whimpy 3/8" stainless 5-piece bolt with a ASCA FIXE hanger in it's place. If anyone out there knows who is working this route you could tell them that I will be in my shop behind the Volunteer Field Office all day tomorrow and they can come by and have a look at what they were falling on.
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