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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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There are times in every life when the words "survival is not assured" assume real meaning: This is one. Jeff Lowe is very ill, our food is gone and our fuel nearly so. The storm on Latok 1 continues to rage and we are facing 8000 feet of vertical descent (closer to 11,000 in actual distance) through difficult and dangerous terrain.
Jeff is still ill and the snow continues to fall as we start the descent the next day. We have lightened Jeff's load but that is the most help we can offer in our weakened state. We know that we have to exercise extreme care. We are tired, the conditions are trying and the fresh snow and ice make finding and using good rappel points very difficult. Additionally, we know that the distance we need to travel combined with the gear at hand means that nearly all of our raps will be from single anchors.
The end of the first day finds us sitting side by side with our feet dangling over the edge, the void below hidden by the falling snow. We fall into restless sleep as spindrift avalanches cascade gently over us.
I awake in the dawn to see Jeff's slumped, snow covered body next to me. I fear the worst as I prod Jeff and am surprised when I hear his words. "You know, I feel a little bit better." The sun is still hidden by storm clouds but a warm ray of hope washes over me.
Three more days of descent follow...two in storm, the last in brilliant sunshine.
My memories are fragments of route finding, creative anchors, tension traverses, the cold wind and my numb feet.....and ALWAYS the sharp existential vigilance required of exhausted bodies moving, ever slowly, down to the promised land of level ground, warmth and food....life itself.
The 85th rappel deposited us safely under a brilliant sun onto the flat glacier.
I am writing this on a rainy day in Ouray. My motivation is the current thread enumerating the number of ways you can die rappelling. Too many people are lost every year this way, many more than need be.
The tools for rappelling available today are excellent. Used correctly, rappelling is a safe efficient means of descent.
The key is eternal vigilance: You're tired and cold and rushing toward the warmth and comfort waiting below.
Don't rush but do think of the importance of the anchor, do think about where the rappel is taking you. Momentary discomfort should not be the reason for hasty, poor decisions.
The mantra every climber should have is "getting up is optional, getting back down is obligatory."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 11, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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well said and illustrated!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jun 11, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
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Nice Jim. Especially the conclusion.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 11, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Great post Donini. That was a hellacious effort you guys had on Latok. Is it true that even after all of these years between your trip and now: no one has yet bettered your high point?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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Excellent essay! Thanks for putting that up. Getting down IS mandatory.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
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TFPU Great post .
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
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Great post.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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The key is eternal vigilance Yep.
And I believe it helps to have a simple system,
so that your attention is not spread out over too many steps in the process.
Epic photo of you on too-low rations at altitude!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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Wow Jim. I have heard stories of this story but hearing it from the horse's mouth is like hearing about Little Bighorn from Custer himself. Thanks for sharing. An inspiring read as I pack for a few days of alpine action with storms afoot in the high country.
Scott
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Hey Jim,
Great post!
As I'm sure you will agree, those "epics" are the memories which will be fixated on your brain forever. Just think--sport climbers will never experience this type of thing.
A few days ago, Mark Richey, Joe Terravecchia, and George Lowe returned back from Mt. Huntington. Mark said George was still going "strong".
I need a little bit of that motivation!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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What did you guys think Jeff's chances of living were?
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 11, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
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Well said Jim. "Eternal Vigilance"
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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Eternal vigilance does odd things to our perception:
lost in time, neither the beginning nor the end in sight;
a tiny moment with all its details lasts forever;
but when the whole is finished and vigilance fades,
it all blurs together and seems but a moment.
I'm somewhat envious that I haven't lived life to the 85th rappel intensity,
but truth be told, at this point I'm probably more thankful!
I do cherish my memories of mini-epics though.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 11, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Crazy story. Glad you guys made it!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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Fricking Great Report. What year was this attempted??
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Well said Jim, with respect and thank you for sharing this!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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To answer a few questions:
The climb was in 1978.
I have been told that there have been over 25 subsequent attempts with no one reaching our high point.
I am aware of two expeditions going this year. I wish them the best of luck.....this climb needs closure.
I recall George taking Michael and me aside in the snow cave and saying that he thought that Jeff had a 35% chance of survival and that our's was 65%.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
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Awesome Jim. Did you guys use v-threads back then? How long were the ropes?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
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Succinctly and meaningfully put, Jim.
I recall George taking Michael and me aside in the snow cave and saying that he thought that Jeff had a 35% chance of survival and that our's was 65%.
To paraphrase that US general's response to the Germans' demand to surrender Bastogne...
"Nuts!"
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
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Totally awesome donini. Thanks for the share.
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