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MisterE
Social climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Not true - there is even a larger one in one of the canyons of Sedona...
but it is on an unclimbed 5.13+ project, so good luck getting to it.
This?
That's like a belangle-iron, not a ledge - you should see the cage on the project.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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i appreciate the work you've done in potrero ed. its a fun place to climb for sure. but is this really the way forward?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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On a multipitch clip up in Mexico, hell yeah I'd park it on that thing.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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WOW! All I can say is WOW! Really? Was that REALLY necessary? The guys at Beacon Rock would have a heart attack.
Just think of the mountains of crap the person that installed that is gonna get.... wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of all that.
Plaid
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:40am PT
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That bolted on ledge in the photo is not only stupid and offensive, it's super goofy, too. I didn't bother to click the link of the OP, my quota for this kind of stuff got used up with a glance at the upstream photo.
BTW, I also saw some photos of chain quickdraws at Donner Summit. Lame, lame, lame!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:54am PT
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U guys have never been to Potrero.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:56am PT
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I wonder what going to happen when ropes get pulled over the 'ledge' or the side of the 'ledge' at the end of a rappel. And, oh yeah, 'sport climbing is neither.'
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 14, 2013 - 07:54am PT
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I have three thoughts about this.
1. Why would anyone who has watched the way sport climbing has affected climber's attitudes be surprised?
2. Ed already knows exactly what the reactions will be. To maximize the buzz, he's simultaneously posted here, at Mountain Project, and on rockclimbing.com.
3. As climbers age, they just get weirder. And I say this as one of the aged ones.
Edit: Should we start a pool on how long the rust streak will eventually be?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 14, 2013 - 08:00am PT
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From my trips to Mexico I'd say the Mexicans dont give much of a sh#t about the environment.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Mar 14, 2013 - 08:43am PT
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It's an amusement park; do whatever you like.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 14, 2013 - 09:01am PT
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I figure that must be some kinda "thank god ledge" there. For us old folks or sumthin.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 14, 2013 - 09:19am PT
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Seriously though; who cares what happens in that amusement park?
You would think that we shouldn't care, but the history of sport climbing suggests that the "amusement parks" become, for many people, the model for what all "parks" should be. And with this plaisir climbing model comes either a sense of entitlement (my feet hurt and I am entitled to some relief here), or a sense of anarchical independence (no one can tell me what to do with my local rocks, so bugger off, Sparky), and usually both together.
And maybe "we" don't care about those things either, but it is why some people might care.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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Good points, Rich, and I agree. Sarcasm is the deense of the weak.
Bolted belay ledges, convenience anchors at the top of Son of Easy O, etc.; the thin edge of the wedge is getting bigger and more intrusive all the time, and the prevailing sentiment seem to be that this is progress, this is the future, so get the hell out of the way.
I can't know, of course, but developments such as this and the chipping incidents seem to indicate a very different approach to climbing. Climbers have typically looked at a rock face, a boulder, a mountain, or some ice and said: "I wonder if I can climb that. I'm going to try." The newer approach is: "I can - can not could - climb that if I am able to manipulate and change the medium." No uncertainties, no challenges, and no failures because you adjust the environment to your specs.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:08am PT
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Its better then getting your head chopped off.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:15am PT
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don't be too hard on Ed.
14 bodies dumped in a well to send a message to your clients to stay away is arguably a much bigger deal than a 2 bolts and some angle iron.
I think a chain from the anchors to a plank to put your butt on would be more comfortable. This arrangement was at El Chorro on the overhanging multi-pitch climbs.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:25am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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Comfortize all you want, people won't come back until the narcos are dealt with.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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I just threw up a little in my mouth....theres the reaction you were hoping for.
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