Father Time: New VI Free Route on Middle Cathedral

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James

climber

My twin brother's laundry room

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2012 - 01:42pm PT

A few days ago, Mikey Schaefer made the first free ascent of Father TIme. He had established the route earlier this summer after two years of work. It's an impressive line on amazing rock. Patagonia published my trip report. More details can be found on Rock and Ice as well.

It was great climbing on natural hard free climbing. The pin scars of hard El Cap free climbs suck.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 23, 2012 - 01:51pm PT

The pin scars of hard El Cap free climbs suck.

AMEN BRO!!!!!!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:04pm PT

WOW. Congrats to both of you! Wish I was able to do 5.12+ slabs with one arm tied behind my back. Actually wish I was able to lead 5.10 slab with both hands ATM! Well done!

Hope the attention of other STers move out of Lance Armstrong thread and on to this!

splitclimber

climber

Sonoma County

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:10pm PT

SO RAD!!

Thanks for posting James. Nice write-up on the Patagonia blog.

caughtinside

Social climber

Oakland, CA

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:19pm PT

nice writeup and good photos. THanks

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:22pm PT

That's rad! However, looks like some bolts next to crack in a couple shots? Maybe the photos are deceiving, but looks like good pro....maybe I'm wrong

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:23pm PT

High angle slabs, 111 bolts, headpointing - cool - but were any ropes sh#t on in the process? If not, does that mean we're evolving, remorseful, or just too old to give a sh#t?

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:33pm PT

GNAR!!!!

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:43pm PT

Super proud effort! I have always wondered why more routes don't pierce through the upper ramparts of Middle's North face area.

Way to persevere on a difficult sounding endeavor. Is there a topo available yet?

climber

Oct 23, 2012 - 02:59pm PT

Brilliant!

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:05pm PT

Very cool! Thanks for the TR.

John

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:16pm PT

Yeah Mikey !!

Middle Cat, the rock is never better.

Way to shred it Bro, nice posts.

mikeyschaefer

climber

Yosemite

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:23pm PT

Definitely no bolts next to available natural protection. Though I did add three bolts to sections that I had initially used beaks and knife blades to protect. All 3 of these sections involve 5.13 climbing. I thought about not using the bolts but I'm glad I did. Both Tommy and Alex thought it would be scary without them. They also both fell on the bolts...

I drew up a shitty topo for Tommy but need to make a real one. I'm headed out of the country tomorrow for three weeks and probably won't get to it soon but will post one when I do.

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:36pm PT

^that's what I figured. Nice job! Looks sick

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:43pm PT

Very nice work! Congrats!

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Oct 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT

Must have been your fixed lines I walked by last month. What a beautiful place for a project. Magical cirque like area. Beautiful looking rock and I thought whoever was working way up there was really taking advantage of what the valley has to offer if folks would go off the beaten path.

Grats hope you had a blast up there!!